The Seitch, 5.8-5.11c

Overview/Approach

 
The Seitch and Brownie Girl Dome are several features easily accessed from the Boy Scout Trail parking area in Jtree. They are so easily accessed in fact that I have seen folks illegally camp near Brownie Girl as it makes for a short distance (15 minutes) back and forth to their auto for water. Whether you are seeking lower or higher grades, the south face of Brownie Dome makes for a full day during the winter months if combined with the south and east facing walls on Seitch.

Zonkers Brownies on Brownie Girl Dome is a worthy 5.7 trad route whilst Buster Brown offers an excellent 5.10- experience on the main face just to the left of Zonkers. Downward Bound is a stout and tall 5.8 trad challenge on the Seitch which also offers four 100’ 5.11 bolted routes worth bagging for the avid sport climber. Al Swanson established the sport routes and all four have their own anchor.
 
Park at the Boy Scout trail head. Head north on the main trial. Turn left in front of the first rock formation you come to (Chile Pepper). Head for the next formation to the west which is Brownie Girl Dome. Skirt along the left side to find the south facing wall.  Seitch is easily reached by hiking up and down the col to the west.  Head all the way down to the desert floor and the south east facing walls of Seitch will be right in front of you to the west.  Miramontes talks in his guide of circumventing Brownie Girl Dome to the north to reach Seitch, but that is the long way around. If you are just heading for the Seitch, leave the trail immediately from the parking area and make a bee line to the northwest for the tall southeast facing wall that erupts from the desert floor. It is less than a mile hike to the base of the routes.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Southeast Wall

Downward Bound-30m-5.8*/This pitch is sustained at the grade on suspect rock with intricate pro. As you approach the Seitch from the east, Downward Bound is located on the left side of the sun exposed arête. Look for an obvious shallow groove that runs through a dike. Follow this feature to a horizontal. Head left to access the direct dike finish or a wide right facing corner out left. The crux is found after you leave the comfort of the initial crack onto the vertical dike. A few shallow and suspect placements make this route not ideal for the aspiring trad leader at the grade. Make a few delicate moves on suspect rock up to the horizontal where you breathe easy again. The dike continues at 5.10R or simply step left to the wide crack corner for a fun couple moves up and then back right for the finish. Set up a belay on medium sized boulders about 30’ back from the top (large flat summit area). The fixed rap can be difficult to locate.  From the summit, head southeast to the top of the arête where there are two sets of rap rings. Scramble down and left and then back right through a slot to reach them.  Single 60m rope makes it down. Dow

The Shiv-30m-5.10d*/

Seitch Tactics-30m-5.11b**/

Seitch and Destroy-25m-5.11c*/

Merry Fucking Christmas-25m-5.11c*/

Images

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