Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial, 5.9-5.11a

Overview/Approach

Dow leading Lesbian Lust, 5.9***

A fantastic route to combine with the highly sought after three star (Miramontes Guide) 5.7 named Hawk’s Nest is Lesbian Lust (5.9***). I climbed several of the other routes at the Hatchery area besides Hawk’s Nest and they were not very memorable. From the Hawk Hatchery, return to the broad valley floor and continue west following the large drainage as it narrows and climbs. The Zsa Zsa Gabor boulder lays among many others up on the right side of this upper valley area once you get through a drainage constriction. This pyramid shaped boulder has a cave in the bottom that possessed a cracked tortoise shell in 2017, tore apart by a predator (photo).

Lesbian Lust is a bolted (4) arête up the right side of the north face of this boulder. Another route that is just as good as Lesbian is the Right Side Arête (5.10a) which runs up a different set of four bolts just to the right of Lesbian Lust (same arete but different face).  Right Side has a punchy start to clip the first bolt and the crux requires a dramatic move to finish. Open Container (5.9) is marked as a mixed route on the right side of the west face but the only gear is at the beginning and does not protect you for the crux move to the lone bolt. However it eases way off at the grade after the single clip. All the routes can be rapped via a fixed anchor at the top.
 

Predator Cracked Tortoise Shell in Cave

Miramontes guide is not very clear on where to park for this whole area in Pinto Wye sub named Oz. He speaks of an “information board” which relates more to a board located at a significant trail head on the right, after you pass through the park fee station. Rather there is an interpretive placard on the left which is the ideal parking spot to reach this part of OZ which is approximately three miles in from the fee station. He discusses how long it is from the fee station but says the parking is on the right (which it is if you are coming from Jumbo Rocks). Depending on the time of year, there is not much of a trail whatsoever (2017) from this parking area up to the correct valley. The general climbing area of OZ includes several canyons.  Its obvious features which can be seen from the road is a different climbing area to the east of the valley that takes you to Hawks Nest and Lesbian Lust.  You need to gain a wash right from the parking area and head west around the toe of a rocky hill. Then turn left up a hidden valley wash. You are gaining elevation at all times. The Hatchery is located up a steep drainage on the left side. Zsa Zsa is located by continuing up this valley via several large washes until it pinches down to a steep rocky drainage. Continue straight by scrambling up the drainage. By pass the first drainage to the right (Miramontes guide can be misleading here) and make the 2nd right up a broader drainage area to beautifully colored boulders. Zsa Zsa if easily identified as a pyramid shaped boulder on the left. Lesbian Lust is on the north face of this pyramid. Depending on where you parked, this could be up to an hour hike.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the North Wall