Dow leading Lesbian Lust, 5.9***
A fantastic route to combine with the highly sought after three star (Miramontes Guide) 5.7 named Hawk’s Nest
is Lesbian Lust (5.9***).
I climbed several of the other routes at the Hatchery area
besides Hawk’s Nest and they were not very memorable. From the Hawk Hatchery, return to the broad valley floor and continue west following the large drainage as it narrows and climbs. The Zsa Zsa Gabor boulder lays among many others up on the right side of this upper valley area once you get through a drainage constriction. This pyramid shaped boulder has a cave in the bottom that possessed a cracked tortoise shell in 2017, tore apart by a predator (photo).
Lesbian Lust is a bolted (4) arête up the right side of the north face of this boulder. Another route that is just as good as Lesbian is the Right Side Arête (5.10a)
which runs up a different set of four bolts just to the right of Lesbian Lust (same arete but different face). Right Side has a punchy start to clip the first bolt and the crux requires a dramatic move to finish. Open Container (5.9)
is marked as a mixed route on the right side of the west face but the only gear is at the beginning and does not protect you for the crux move to the lone bolt. However it eases way off at the grade after the single clip. All the routes can be rapped via a fixed anchor at the top.
Predator Cracked Tortoise Shell in Cave
Miramontes guide is not very clear on where to park for this whole area in Pinto Wye sub named Oz. He speaks of an “information board” which relates more to a board located at a significant trail head on the right, after you pass through the park fee station. Rather there is an interpretive placard on the left which is the ideal parking spot to reach this part of OZ which is approximately three miles in from the fee station. He discusses how long it is from the fee station but says the parking is on the right (which it is if you are coming from Jumbo Rocks). Depending on the time of year, there is not much of a trail whatsoever (2017) from this parking area up to the correct valley. The general climbing area of OZ includes several canyons. Its obvious features which can be seen from the road is a different climbing area to the east of the valley that takes you to Hawks Nest and Lesbian Lust. You need to gain a wash right from the parking area and head west around the toe of a rocky hill. Then turn left up a hidden valley wash. You are gaining elevation at all times. The Hatchery is located up a steep drainage on the left side. Zsa Zsa is located by continuing up this valley via several large washes until it pinches down to a steep rocky drainage. Continue straight by scrambling up the drainage. By pass the first drainage to the right (Miramontes guide can be misleading here) and make the 2nd right up a broader drainage area to beautifully colored boulders. Zsa Zsa if easily identified as a pyramid shaped boulder on the left. Lesbian Lust is on the north face of this pyramid. Depending on where you parked, this could be up to an hour hike.
Route Description(s)Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the North Wall
Lesbian Lust- 30’-5.9***/ Must be asking yourself how a 30’ sport route can garner three stars. In fact it is the highest rated 5.9 sport route in Miramontes guide. This is a very unique climb on the most aesthetic boulder in the park: basically a Disney World ride. Climb the left side of the arete through 4 bolts. Mostly a lay back up the arete. The rap is on the other side, but you can attach a few slings and top rope the route. Dow
Right Side Arete- 30’-5.10a*/ The start and finish are more challenging than Lesbian Lust. To reach the first bolt is heady. A finger edge and shallow finger pocket help make a few slab like moves up to the first clip. Then lay back the arete on the right side which is steeper than Lesbian. The last move was the crux for me. Get aggressive after the last clip (4th bolt) and power up the arete to grab the summit. I got distracted by an edge hold out right that does not do anything for you. Dow
Assault and Battery- 30’-5.11a*/ (top rope)
Open Container- 30’-5.9/This is marked as a trad route but the only gear is so low it does not do anything for you. Rather it is a run out 2 bolt sport route. Ramp in from the left on the obvious feature. Make the crux slab move off our left foot after making the first clip. Strong move for the grade but obviously well protected. Continue up easier moves to the summit. Dow
On other Boulders behind Zsa Zsa and to the Right
Marsupial Lust- 25’-5.9/
God Speed- 25’-5.9/