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Becca Conge

 
Becca Conge

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Aosta Valley Quart Valpelline Municipalities, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.81088°N / 7.41142°E

Object Title: Becca Conge

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 9698 ft / 2956 m

 

Page By: OsvaldoCardellina

Created/Edited: Dec 18, 2015 / Feb 19, 2016

Object ID: 961569

Hits: 757 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview




This Summit is a node topographic paramount, in fact from it originate three ridges to the North in the direction of the hills of St. Barthelemy (in the Northeast; 2638m), Arpeyssaou (to the North; 2494m) and de la Lliée (towards north-northwest, about 2500 metres). The first among these is the border with the Comba Verdona to South of the Municipality of Oyace, after reaching the Col de St. Barthelemy the eponymous Peak (2868m). The other two instead are directed respectively to Becca Morion (2713m) and to the Alpe de l'Arpeyssaou (2157 m); while the North acts as a divider between the Combe Verdona and Verdzignola, the other or North-northwest is entirely into the interior of this last vallon. A fourth crest finally descends towards the Southwest constituting the boundary between Comba Verdzignola (Valpelline) and the Comba Dèche, addressed to the Municipality of Quart in the Central Valley of Dora Baltea. Then formed by three walls, of which the Eastern, crossed by three horrid gullies, is divided into at least two distinct sides (see picture below), while on the other side or Western is more "flattened" and shaped sole or, if you prefer , as a catfish. Even this is etched by two rocky gullies that certainly does not invite to climb, because it is object of falling stones. Incidentally all the rock of this mountain is somewhat broken, if not crumbling and unstable, allowing more and more delicate climb that difficult. They are "saving" themselves the two main routes on the ridge: a)- that of the Northeast Ridge or Normal Route that originated from the Hill of St. Barthélemy, although a pass into a notch just below the Summit requires attention; b)- that of the Southwest Ridge, until now exclusively downhill path, which presents some short sections that forced him to abandon the edge of the ridge forcing small circumvention on the East Slope. This reaches the Quota 2918 metres or Punta Marie Joseph Henry, the same name the first climber but he not reached but discarding the same on the left (always East), and the Summit of the Eastern (2971m) double Tsaat a l'Etsena, the highest Summit of the whole area. In contrast it is compensated by exceptional views on the entire Chain of Pennine Alps from Mont Blanc to the Monte Rosa Group, passing Grand Golliaz, Mont Velan, the Combins, Dent d'Herens and Matterhorn. In a final note, to point out the beautiful full crossing that can be extended up to the Col de Fana and subsequent and numerous Beaks (2880m, 2951m), with a descent from the narrow Collar 2925 metres can fall within the above Comba Dèche to Alps Seyvaz or Clavel (2184m, 1994m) and from these respectively to the Col St. Barthélemy and Oyace Common in Valpelline or Trois Villes Hamlets.




Questa Sommità costituisce un nodo topografico di primaria importanza, infatti da essa si originano tre creste verso Settentrione in direzione dei colli di St. Barthélemy (a Nordest; 2638m), Arpeyssaou (a Nord; 2494m) e de la Lliée (a Nord-nordovest; 2500 metri circa). La prima tra queste costituisce lo spartiacque con la Comba di Verdona a Mezzogiorno del Comune di Oyace, raggiungendo dopo il Colle di St. Barthélemy l'omonima Punta (2868m). Le altre due invece si indirizzano rispettivamente verso la Becca Morion (2713m) e l'Alpe de l'Arpeyssaou (2157m); mentre quella Nord funge da divisorio tra le Combe di Verdona e di Verdzignola, l'altra o Nord-nordovest risulta interamente all'interno di quest'ultimo vallone. Una quarta cresta infine discende verso Sudovest costituendo il confine tra la Comba di Verdzignola (Valpelline) e quella Dèche, indirizzata verso il Comune di Quart nella Valle Centrale della Dora Baltea. Formata quindi da tre pareti, delle quali quella Orientale, solcata da tre orridi canaloni, si divide in almeno due facce distinte (vedi foto sotto), mentre sul lato opposto od Occidentale risulta più "appiattita" ed a forma di sogliola o, se preferite, pesce gatto. Anche questa viene incisa da due canaloni rocciosi che certamente non invitano alla salita, poiché oggetto di cadute di pietre. Daltronde tutta la roccia di questa montagna risulta alquanto rotta, se non sgretolata ed instabile, permettendo sempre un'arrampicata più delicata che difficile. Si "salvano" i due percorsi principali in cresta: a)- quello della Cresta Nordest o Via Normale che trae origine dal Colle di St. Barthélemy, anche se un passaggio in un intaglio appena al di sotto della Vetta richiede attenzione; b)- quello della Cresta Sudovest, fino ad ora percorso esclusivamente in discesa, che presenta alcuni brevi tratti obbliganti ad abbandonare il filo di cresta costringendo a piccoli aggiramenti sul Versante Orientale. Questa raggiunge la Quota 2918 metri o Punta Marie Joseph Henry, omonima del primo salitore ma da lui non raggiunta bensì scartata sulla sinistra (sempre Est), e la Vetta Orientale (2971 m) della duplice Tsaat a l'Etsena. Queste caratteristiche, insieme alla lunghezza degli approcci sia partendo dalla Comba Dèche che dalla Valpelline, fanno sì che questa Cima sia veramente poco conosciuta e scarsamente frequentata anche dagli alpiniti locali. Per contro viene compensata da vedute eccezionali sulle intere Alpi Pennine dalla Catena del Monte Bianco fino a quella del Monte Rosa, oltrepassando Grand Golliaz, Mont Velan, i Combins, Dent d'Hérens e Cervino. In un ultima annotazione, da segnalare la bella traversata integrale che può essere protratta fino al Col di Fana ed ai successivi e numerosi Becchi (2880 m, 2951 m), con discesa che dal Colletto 2925 metri permette il rientro nella Comba Dèche sopra le Alpi La Seyvaz o Clavel (2184 m, 1994 m) e da queste rispettivamente al Col St. Barthélemy ed Oyace in Valpelline oppure ai Villaggi di Trois Villes sulla collina di Quart.


Topo by Valpelline or Northwest



First Ascents

  • First on Summit: Abbé Joseph Marie Henry, lone; (Sep 02, 1912) from St. Barthélemy Hill.
  • In Winter: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, (Dec 28th, 2000), from Tois Villes-Fonteil through Comba Dèche and by Northeastern Ridge round trip.
  • Northeasth Ridge: Abbé Joseph Marie Henry, lone; (Sep 02, 1912), in ascent.
  • South Crest: Abbé Joseph Marie Henry, lone; (Sep 02, 1912), in descent.
  • Traverse to Eastern Tsaat a l'Etsena: Abbé Joseph Marie Henry, lone; (Sep 02, 1912), from St. Barthélemy Hill avoiding left Quota 2918 metres or Punta Henry.
  • Great Complete Traverse: from St. Barthélemy Hill-Becca Conge by Northeast Ridge-Quota 2918 metres or Punta Henry crossing North/South-Eastern Tsaat à l'Etsena by North Crest-Pass and Becchi di Fana integral traverse round trip (Western Antesummit 2945 metres, Collar 2925 metres, Central 2951 metres, Second 2945 metres, Third 2940 metres, Fourth or Eastern 2938 metres): Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi (Aug 20th, 1978); in descent North Face of Collar 2925 metres.

    Getting There

    By car:

    • From TORINO, MILANO, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at IVREA or Quincinetto (PIEDMONT)

      From IVREA Town: in West to Pont Saint Martin, Donnas, Bard, Verrès, St. Vincent, Châtillon, Nus, Quart, St. Christophe, Aosta and Roisan Municipalities.

      From Courmayeur Resort: in East to Morgex, La Salle, Saint Pierre, Sarre, Aosta, Roisan and Saint Chistophe Municipalities.




      From Aosta Town towards Quart and Nus Municipalities
      1)-:
      By Quart-Villair to Epilaz, Argnod Villages or from SS n° 26 nearby La Plantaz (540m), with Regional and Municipal Roads, towards Chétoz, Vignil, Fornail, Ville sur Nus-Planeville, Buignod, Porsan Villages to Trois Villes-Avisod Village (1398m). From this towards La Seyvaz, Valchourda Alps (2206m), in Comba Dèche.
      2)-: From Quart
      to Fonteil with previous route; this through dirt road, towards La Seyvaz (2184m), Valchourda Alps (2392m), in Comba Dèche.
      From Nus-La Plantaz in State Road to Ville sur Nus-Planeville (1113m); from this, towards Buignod, Avion (1312m) Villages. Also from Porsan through Trois Villes (1398m), Avion, fork (1250m) to Effraz Village (1487m), with Municipal Roads. From this to Ronc (1737m), Machaussy Alps, in Effraz Comba.
      From Aosta towards Valpelline Valley
      3)-:
      From Aosta City with State Road n° 26 towards the alternative before Gignod Municipality; from this through the Regional Road in Northeast towards Valpelline Commune (580m) and always through Regional Road, towards Oyace Commune (1316-1377m). From these to Southern Vallons: a)- by Valpelline towards Verdzignola and b)- by Oyace towards Verdona Vallon.




    • From FRANCE: through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Entrèves-crossroads to Vény/Ferret Valleys - Mountain Guides of Courmayeur - La Saxe Rock Gym - Courmayeur. By Little Saint Bernard Pass, closed since November until half May to La Thuile Valley - Pré Saint Didier - Courmayeur.

      It is not necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on State Road n° 26, in the direction of AOSTA - IVREA - TURIN.


    By plane:
    • Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta)

    Approach and Route




    Approach from Trois Villes-Fonteil Village: over the triple Village of Trois Villes, and now the interior of St. Barthélemy Valley, opens the Comba Dèche, that has a vertical depth reaching the hill with the same name. As well as very important Pass (2639m) towards the Valpelline and Oyace Common, between Becca Conge (2954m) and Punta Verdona (2868m) and just before the beautiful pyramid of Mount Faroma (3073m), now belonging fully to this valley. An aggregation perhaps, for this comba, somewhat arbitrary but certainly practical for even the farm private dirt road that runs, concomitant with the trail n° 3/4 on valley floor, reaching in succession the mountain Pastures of Nouva, Flemagne, Salé, Cré, Brunier, Clavel towards upper La Seyvaz and Valchourda Alpages (2184m, 2392m) and finally the St. Barthélemy Hill (2639m; E/; 4h'00/4h'30 by Fonteil) leave just from Trois Villes beginning immediately above of Fonteil Village (1423m; mini parking). (EEA/F+/PD-; 4h'00/4h'30).
    By St. Barthélemy Pass and through the watershed Comba Dèche with Valpelline Valley on Northeast Ridge or Normal Route: from the hill turn in the Southwest and perform the divide with the Comba Verdona (above Oyace Municipality in the adjacent Valpelline Valley) through easy rocks and some traces spread up to a first altitude 2826 metres, outflanked on the right (North) and then the Antesummit Northeast (2914m); from this point becomes the same partition with the Comba Verdzignola (above Valpelline Common) and exceeding a cut of about 12/15 metres (II°/II°+ on edge of the ridge) ends with the Northeast Ridge, formed by blocks easy but dangerously stacked balanced very unstable (EEA/F+/PD-; 1h'30/1h'45 St. Barthélemy Hill; 2h'20/2h'40 by Valchourda Alp; 5h'30/6h'00 overall by Fonteil).




    St. Barthélemy Hill (to the left; 2638m) by Northeast Crest or Normal Route


    Avvicinamento dal Villaggio di Trois Villes-Fonteil Village: oltre il triplice Villaggio di Trois Villes (Porsan, Avisod e Fonteil), ed ormai internamente alla Valle di Saint Barthélemy, si allunga la Comba Dèche, che possiede una profondità in verticale raggiungendo l'omonimo nonché molto importante Colle verso la Valpelline (2639 m), collocato tra la Becca Conge (2954 m) e la Punta di Verdona (2868 m) ed appena prima della bella piramide del Monte Faroma (3073 m), ormai appartenente in modo completo a questa valle. Una aggregazione forse, quella di questa comba, un poco arbitraria ma sicuramente pratica poiché anche la strada poderale ed il concomitante sentiero n° 3/4 che la percorrono raggiungendo in successione le Alpi di Nouva, Flemagne, Salé, Cré, Brunier, Clavel, la Seyvaz e Valchourda (2184 m, 2392 m) ed infine il Colle di St. Barthélemy (2639 m; E/; 4h'00/4h'30 da Fonteil) partono proprio da Trois Villes con inizio al Villaggio appena superiore di Fonteil (1423 m; mini parcheggio).
    Dal Colle di St. Barthélemy tramite la Cresta Nordest o Via Normale: dal colle volgere a Sudovest e seguire lo spartiacue con la Comba di Verdona (sopra Oyace in Valpelline) tramite facili rocce e qualche traccia sparsa fino a raggiungere dapprima la Quota 2826 metri, aggirabile sulla destra (Nord) e poi l'Antecima Nordest (2914 m); da questo punto il medesimo diventa divisorio con la Comba Verdzignola (sopra Valpelline) e superando un intaglio di 12/15 metri circa (II°/II°+ sul filo) si conclude con la Cresta Nordest, formata da blocchi facili ma pericolosamente accatastati in equilibrio alquanto instabile (EEA/F+/PD-; 1h'30/1h'45 dal colle; 5h'30/6h'00 da Fonteil).

    Becca di Viou
    Tsaat  a l Etsena
    Becchi di Fana Northern Slopes from Grand Pays 1974
    Becchi di Fana from West
    Lower Comba Dèche towards St. Barthélemy Hill 2015


    All Slopes, all Ridges, all Faces and all Routes, by emilius, Marco Cossard "Crevassino", Antonio & Osw

    Difficulties & Equipment

    DIFFICULTIES

    This route can be considered EEA/F+/PD- (Experts Hikers and Mountaineers); BSA in winter (even by Ski).

    L'itinerario è da classificare in EEA/F+/PD- (Escursionisti Esperti od Alpinisti) BSA in inverno (anche in Scialpinismo).

    Becca Conge & Pointe Joseph Henry from West 2015
    From Pointe Henry to Tsaat a l Etsena & Senevé 2015
    Becca Conge-Pointe Henry-Tsaat a l Etsena-Senevé 2015


    EQUIPMENT

    High Hiking gear, in winter as for Ski-Mountaineering.

    Da Alto Escursionismo, in inverno da Scialpinismo.

    Images

    From Vessona\'s Hill/Mount Faroma the watershed to Becca of Viou & RoisanBecchi di Fana Northern Slopes from Grand Pays 1974Tsaat  a l\'EtsenaBecca di Viou Becchi di Fana from WestWinter to Point Henry, Becca Conge & Matterhorn 1985Becca Conge & Pointe Joseph Henry Western Faces 2015
    Comba Dèche Becca d\'Aveuille towards Faroma 2015Normal Via by St. Barthélemy Hill to Becca Conge 2015Chain from Bca Conge up to the Pointe de Senevé 2015Becca Conge above upper part of Comba Dèche 2015Becca Conge-Pointe Henry-Tsaat a l\'Etsena-Senevé 2015Becca Conge & P. Herry above Verdzignola Vallon 2015From Pointe Henry to Tsaat a l\'Etsena & Senevé 2015
    [ View Gallery - 6 More Images ]