OverviewDent Blanche is an important peak located on the divide marking the linguistic boundary between the French and German speaking parts of the Wallis region in Switzerland. The peak is symmetrical in shape with four faces and four ridges giving it the appearance of a cross when viewed on a map. The spectacular appearance of this peak attracts many climbers to its faces and ridges. Maupassant called Dent Blanche "the Flirt (coquette) Montrous".
Those ridges are:
S or Wandfluegrat (Normal and easiest route, AD or BD). So this is not a climb for everybody.
W or Ferpècle (D+).
N or Col de la Dent Blanche (TD/TD+ or MD/MD+).
E, Viereselsgrat or Arete des Quatre Anes (D).
As well the N face (TD/TD+ or MD/MD+) is one of the most difficult N faces in the Alps.
First climb: S ridge by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig as guides in 18 July 1862.
First Winter climb: N ridge by P. Crettaz and J. Gaudin in 1-2 March 1963.
From the Cabane de Dent Blanche (3.507 m) or from Schönbielhütte (2.694 m) you will reach the South
ridge (crampons). First reach Wandfluelucke at 3.703 m. The ridge is of solid rock III/III+ section softed ascending an icy couloir, excellent scenery. Mixed sections and snow to 35º. Very recommended!
Getting ThereFrom Sion in the Rhône Valley, advance to Val d'Herens, Les Haudères and then to Salay (at Ferpècle). Starting point for the normal route : Refuge Rossier (3.507 m). You'll need 5-6 hours from Ferpècle (Val d'Hérence) to approach this hut.
Road to Sion then post bus to Les Haudères (33 Km) at 1.436 m, a very pleasant spot.
Ferpècle parking 7 Km from Les Haudères via La Forclaz and Salay, until the bridge over la Borgne de Ferpècle.
Distances from Sion:
Evolène 24,5 km
La Forclaz 32 km
Le Haudères 28.3 km
Distances from Région d'Evolène:
FRIBOURG 150 km
GENEVE 190 km
LAUSANNE 120 km
NEUCHATEL 184 km
ZURICH 305 km
BRUXELLES 800 km
FRANCFORT 600 km
PARIS 620 km
TURIN 225 km
Buses at Sion (Région d'Evolène) bus-station, line 4.
Rail to Sion by:
TGV des Neiges (Paris - Sion)
Pendolino (Milan - Sion - Genève)
See LINKS for more information.
The nearest International airport is Géneve-Cointrin and the regional airport is Sion.
When To ClimbJune to September is the most adequate period for climbing this mountain.
CampingIn Evolène (1.371 m), Evoléne.
In Les Haudères, Molignon.
Dent Blanche Huts(There're many web sites concerning refuges, depending on the site you'll find one information or another, so the differences between my information and that of a web site can vary a little. Also the information in the sites is changed in time).
CABANE DE LA DENT BLANCHE OR REFUGE ROSSIER (3.507 m)
CAS hut , klasse 1, 55 places, opens from early July to mid September. Phone +41 (0)27 283 10 85). Info - booking: Martine Fournier, Bâtiment de la Poste, 1983 Evolène (027 283 14 66). Prices per night at 2000:
Members of less than 20 years-old: Fr. 20.-
Non membres : Fr. 26.- From 15 to 22 years-old : Fr. 15.- From 10 to 19: Fr. 17.- Less than: Fr. 10.- Half board: Fr. 29.-
SCHÖNBIELHÜTTE (2.694 m)
CAS hut, 80 places, opens from 15 March to 15 Septembre (non-continue at Juin). Phone +41(0)27 967 13 54. Guardian private phone +41(0)27 967 47 62. 3 hours from Furi (cableway from Zermatt).
More links: Schönbielhütte Official Site, Schönbielhütte (Holidaynet)
CABANE DU MOUNTET (2.886 m) - Quatre Anes Ridge
CAS hut, 115 places, opens from 1 July to 15 Septembre. Phone +41 (0)27 475 14 31. 5 hours from Zinal passing Petit Mountet restaurant (2.142 m).
BIVOUAC DE LA DENT BLANCHE (3.540 m) - Col de la Dent Blanche
CAS hut, 20 places, always open. 6 hours from Ferpècle passing Bricola, 4 hours from Cabane du Mountet.
MapsEvòlene, Landeskarte der Swcheiz 1:25.000.
5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel, Landeskarte der Swcheiz 1:25.000.
Berg: Dent Blanche
Information about trains in France and trains from France to Switzerland. In french only.
- CIS ALPINO AG
Information about trains of this swiss company which join Switzerland with Italy and Germany. In french, german, italian and english.
Information about trains of this reputable swiss company. In english.
Information about this famous swiss train company. In french.
Information about this worthy swiss train company. In italian.
- SBB in german
Information about this reputable swiss train company.
Information about trains of Ferrovie dello Stato S. p. A (FS), the famous italian company, wich joins Italy with Switzerland. In italian, english, german, french and spanish.
The site of this french train company. In french, spanish, german, english, italian and flemish.
- Règion Evolène
A very complete site of this swiss region: lodging, restaurants, events, skiing, reguges, sports, access information, weather, avalanches, villages info, photos, etc. In french and english.
- Le Nouvelliste
4 days weather forecast in région Evolène, not centred on the mountain area but it could be an aid. Also there is a webcam focusing on Sion (Switzerland) and the actual temperature there.
- Swiss Federal Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research Davos
The site of this Institute with good information about the risks of avalanches. In german, french, italian and english.
- Dent Blanche at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
- Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.
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