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Black Magic Poodle

Black Magic Poodle

Black Magic Poodle

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.31040°N / 116.8798°W

Object Title: Black Magic Poodle

Route Type: Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: moderate

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 8 Votes


Page By: Deb

Created/Edited: Aug 8, 2005 / Dec 28, 2006

Object ID: 166166

Hits: 2656 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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From the parking area at the end of road 3N07, jump low wire fence and follow well-worn footpath north, passing exotic rock formations mainly on your left. Coyote Crag is approx a 10 minute walk through boulder-strewn sparse pine and sage fields; take care not to squash the many micro-toads hopping along the sandy path! You will pass two small formations on the left, the third will be a eye-popping conglumeration - Lost Orbit Wall; continue on path a few more minutes, easing to your right on the path and Coyote Crag will come into view over the tree tops within moments; at this point you will be scrambling over boulders to reach the base of the wall. This is a southeast facing wall, enjoy the morning sun on well protected sporty routes!

Route Description

Black Magic Poodle is a grunt climb consisting mainly of sharp edged flakes. Although it appears fairly vertical, you will find the crux at a bulge (which is more than vertical) between the 6th and 7th bolt. Fear not, there are plenty a razor holds to rest upon after 3 or 4 high-tech moves, depending on your height, and success is only a bolt away to a chain anchor.

Essential Gear

50m rope
8 quick draws
2 runners or cordelette with 'biners
one locking 'biner
..... and plenty of chalk!


Beauty at the Pinnacles