ApproachFrom the parking area at the end of road 3N07, jump low wire fence and follow well-worn footpath north, passing exotic rock formations mainly on your left. Coyote Crag is approx a 10 minute walk through boulder-strewn sparse pine and sage fields; take care not to squash the many micro-toads hopping along the sandy path! You will pass two small formations on the left, the third will be a eye-popping conglumeration - Lost Orbit Wall; continue on path a few more minutes, easing to your right on the path and Coyote Crag will come into view over the tree tops within moments; at this point you will be scrambling over boulders to reach the base of the wall. This is a southeast facing wall, enjoy the morning sun on well protected sporty routes!
Route DescriptionBlack Magic Poodle is a grunt climb consisting mainly of sharp edged flakes. Although it appears fairly vertical, you will find the crux at a bulge (which is more than vertical) between the 6th and 7th bolt. Fear not, there are plenty a razor holds to rest upon after 3 or 4 high-tech moves, depending on your height, and success is only a bolt away to a chain anchor.
Essential Gear50m rope
8 quick draws
2 runners or cordelette with 'biners
one locking 'biner
..... and plenty of chalk!