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Miner Forty-Niner
Route

Miner Forty-Niner

 
Miner Forty-Niner

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Miner Forty-Niner

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: Gear start, Bolted finish

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Blair

Created/Edited: Nov 11, 2008 / Nov 12, 2008

Object ID: 462804

Hits: 1693 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

The MotherLode Wall is located near the Amphitheater, behind the Thunderbird and Claim Jumper Walls if coming from the Southern parking area. Miner Forty-Niner is a great trad/sport climb, with a small crack start to a bouldery overhanging roof to finish. The top is bolted, unlike bottom of the climb, where small gear can be placed.
Rock quality, like most of Holcomb Valley, is good but sharp on the hands.

The MotherLode Wall is host to 8 sport routes ranging from 5.3 all the way to hard 11's, and all are easy to toprope, climbing the 5.3 to the top and setting anchors. There are 4 Trad climbs here as well. All anchors are in good shape as of 10-19-08.

Getting There

Please see Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Main Page to get to the Southern Parking Lot.
Southern Approach from Parking Lot Rock- Hike thru the forest on a climber's trail past a couple of boulders and walls until Coyote Crag comes into view, it will be the prominent rock outcropping to the North East. One can go many ways to get to the MotherLode Wall from here by going around to the right of Coyote Crag (Best Approach) and continuing on a climber's trail around the back to the base of the MotherLode Wall. Or you can go straight to the Amphitheater ( The area between the Thunderbird and Claim Jumper Walls) and hike up between these walls to get to MotherLode Wall, which sits behind these crags. Turn Left on a faint trail once you have passed these two crags and the MotherLode Wall will be right there.

On the far Right hand side of the MotherLode Wall is a small crack going up right under a tree. This is Miner Forty-Niner. Above you will see a large roof, where the route climbs up and onto the higher outcropping. To the left of Miner Forty-Niner is a 5.4 ramp route.

Route Description

The start may be a tad hard to put in gear. Small nuts can be placed on a balancy start up the crack (5.8). Stay right of the rotten rock with lichen growing on it. 10 feet up some small cams may be placed. Coming over the start of the route, you meander over 4th class slab to gain a spot under a roof, which is where the first bolt is found above to protect the slab-splashing fall for a uncommitted leader. You will be able to clip and then pull the roof (5.8)

After the roof, follow a couple more bolts up and to the right on good face holds (5.8) to gain the top of the route, where there is a two bolt anchor with chains and quicklocks to lower off.

This route is a great 5.8 climb that is sustained throughout, aside from the small 4th class middle area. Great view from the top.

Essential Gear

-60m Rope
-6 QuickDraws
-Small Nuts, to protect the start. Smaller than #5 size recommend. Micro nuts may be helpful.
-Small, thin TCU's or cams for the start.
-Anchor Setup
-Longer slings to prevent rope drag on the upper part of the route

First Ascent

F.A by Chris Miller in 1991
Miner Forty-Niner
 

Images

Miner Forty-Niner