Caveman, 5.9PG, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Caveman, the furthest west of this central group of Exit Dome routes, is the most unique of the group.  The first pitch climbs right leaning cracks that are right of an obvious weakness that leads through a hole.  It is a crusty pitch, with nothing extraordinary about it.  Near the top, it trends left to a comfortable fixed chain belay directly beneath the cool tunnel hole.  The 2^nd pitch is wild fun.  Stem up through the hole via two bolts.  The crux of the pitch, in light rain anyway, is the exit moves out top as you start to trend right and aim for the shared top rap with Sole Man.  Once you reach these chains, you can squeeze under the arch to continue to Crack Man, 5.10, the best pitch on Exit Dome or rap Sole Man with a single 70m.

There are conflicting opinions on the best approach option to Exit Dome routes in the guide and on MP.com.  The best way to approach all of the Exit Dome routes is simply to head into the canyon as you would for Entrance Dome, which means you will be leaving the wash early to start following cairns up and right as though you were heading for the SE facing Entrance Dome routes, i.e., Full Circle.  Approximately 100’ before you reach Full Circle (the base of Entrance Dome’s SE face) traverse left at the top of a gully and follow intermittent cairns (2023) west as you circumvent Entrance Dome.  The trick is not to be sucked to high as you traverse through brush, but also not to lose any elevation.  Eventually several small fins of rock start to protrude.  Gain the top of these slick rock opportunities to avoid brush and make it to a cave like atmosphere created by a very large fin of rock laying at the center of the south face of Exit Dome.  Iron Man, Ladies Man and Sole Man all start here.  Sole Man is the furthest left bolted route from this spot.  There is one bolt line to the east that is Maintenance Man, which is not a worthy route.  Iron Man and Ladies Man share the same fixed rap stations. After climbing Sole Man, which is a three-pitch route, you can rap west into a gully formed by the massive fin below and climb Grain Surgery, JenEric Stain, Trigger Happy and Cave Man which all share the same top rap station with Sole Man.  With a 70m, rap the short 3^rd pitch of Sole Man.  Then rap to the 1^st pitch anchor on Grain Surgery.  Then rap to atop a fin of rock in the treed and shaded gully below and move west to climb Caveman back to the top of Sole Man.  When finished, you can rap back to the start of Ladies Man, Sole Man and Iron Man where it is best to leave your gear. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 130’-5.8PG/ The local guide references looking for the hole 60’ up which is actually 130’.  Do not follow the natural weakness that leads to the hole, rather follow the right leaning intermittent cracks to the right of it, through a few grassy patches and onto the plated steep face above and traverse left to a chain rap directly below the hole.  The guide calls it PG, but it is barely a PG if it is.  The rock is not the best however.

2^nd Pitch- 190’-5.9PG/ Stem through the cool tunnel/hole feature through two bolts.  The exit might be the crux, but barely at the grade.  It is runout for a move or two.  Then start traversing up and right via easier ground, placing cams in plated cracks or slinging features.  Finish through the final bolt of Sole Man which leads to the top shared anchor.

Descent

To get back to your packs, rap Sole Man with a single 70m.  

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Dozen draw/sling mix.  A few cams, small to medium.  Route gets full sun.  Hiking poles for the approach are recommended.