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Corni di Canzo
Mountain/Rock

Corni di Canzo

 
Corni di Canzo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Como-Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.86856°N / 9.28714°E

Object Title: Corni di Canzo

County: Lombardia

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 4505 ft / 1373 m

 

Page By: gabriele, Corvus

Created/Edited: Nov 5, 2006 / Nov 28, 2010

Object ID: 241535

Hits: 4171 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

In its southern part, the Como lake (Lario) is divided into two branches by a big triangle made of hills and mountains.
The most important summit here is the Monte San Primo where from two main ridges come down, toward south-east and south-west directly to the lake.
The SE branch ends with some remarkable mountains that, despite their low altitude, rise for about 1000m (3300-3400ft) above the plain and the lakes : these summits are well known to Lombardic climbers and hikers as they are good destinations for "out of season" climbing activities, walking, hiking, climbing, sport climbing and .. paragliding :)
They are : from south : the Cornizzolo, the Corno Rai, the Corni di Canzo and the Moregallo
Corni di Canzo are the 3 limestone "brothers" rising in the middle of this ridge and the highest summits.

some tens years ago they where well known and "used" for training during the bad days of winter when Grignetta was full of snow and/or ice and the Nibbio wall was too crowded ...

  • The Corno Occidentale (western) is the highest (1373m) point of the ridge between the Lambro river and the Lecco branch of Lario. It is the easiest one, hosting a good easy path for hikers, a ferrata and some not difficult rock routes

  • The Corno Centrale (central) is 1368m high and is the main for rock climbers due to its NE wall (parete Fasana) where many difficult routes (100-120m drop) have been opened

  • The Corno Orientale (eastern) is 1250m high and has an interesting East wall (100m drop) with some classic and some modern routes

    Getting There

    accesses are different depending on what you are going to do there ...

    for the easy path or the ferrata to the main summit the best starting point is from
    Gajum fonts 450m - how to get there
    from Milano, Como or Lecco follow the roads leading to Erba and "Valassina"
    Here you must follow for "Valassina" till Canzo where you must start on foot
    Canzo is accessible also by railroad from Milano using the FNM (Ferrovie Nord Milano) starting from Milano-Cadorna

    for the rocky routes on the walls of central and eastern summits the best starting point is from
    Valmadrera
    From Milano - SS 36 (Spluga)
    You must leave the SS 36 before the first tunnel, having on your right side a small lake, when on the old road to Lecco, at the first traffic light you have to turn to the left, and go straight along till a square (newspaper kiosk), now on the left and suddenly to the right (via Leopardi), at the fork, to the right (Via S.Carlo Borromeo) then along the road that leads you to Belvedere (290m) when you can park (if you're lucky) your car and start walking toward the Rifugio SEV

    Corno Occidentale - Western summit

    the highest one : 1373 m
    fine from SE-S-SW, heap of grass, bushes and stones from the other sides ... one fine Ferrata on its S side
     
    Corni di Canzo
     
     
    Corno Occidentale di Canzo
     
     
    Corno Occidentale di Canzo
     
     
    Corno Occidentale di Canzo
     

    Corno Centrale - Central summit

    fine from almost all sides, the only bad one ids the W one, facing the Forcella dei Corni, wherefrom the normal route goes on.
    A wide NE wall (Parete Fasana) and a rocky wing (Pilastrini) detached (by a narrow corridor) from the E wall offer good, difficult and not short rock climbing routes
     
    Corno Centrale di Canzo
     
     
    Corno Centrale di Canzo - Fasana wall
     
     
    Corno Centrale di Canzo
     
     
    Pilastrini dei Corni di Canzo
     

    Corno Orientale - Eastern summit

    the lower one, could pass out of sight but ... it has a big Eastern rocky wall, well visible from the valley coming from Lecco
     
    Corno Orientale di Canzo
     
     
    Via Ferrata del 30° OSA
     
     
    Corno Orientale di Canzo
     

    what can a rock climber do here ...

    for beginners
    a good starting point could be the S wall of Western summit where you can find a not difficult (AD) route of about 150m drop or the SW wall where 2 more routes, slighly more difficult, can be a good training.
    An amusing way to spend an afternoon (after a dinner at rifugio SEV) is to climb the "Pilastrini", 2 small pillars detached from the E edge of central summit

    for classic rock climbers
    some difficult, somewhere in aided climb, routes on the NE wall of the central summit and a fine difficult route on the E wall of eastern summit

    for modern climbers
    here a link to an interesting page

    Camping

    No need to camp here (forbidden), all hikes and climbs can be done in one day starting from Padana plan

    Red Tape

    these are very popular sites ... only good manners and politeness are required

    Images