Welcome to SP!  -
Moregallo
Mountain/Rock

Moregallo

 
Moregallo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.86660°N / 9.34480°E

Object Title: Moregallo

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Bouldering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 4186 ft / 1276 m

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth, simo il 4

Created/Edited: Nov 23, 2005 / Dec 13, 2009

Object ID: 155038

Hits: 4093 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

In its southern part, the Como lake (Lario) is divided into two branches by a big triangle made of hills and mountains.
The most important summit here is the Monte San Primo where from two main ridges come down, toward south-east and south-west directly to the lake.
The SE branch ends with some remarkable mountains that, despite their low altitude, rise for about 1000m (3300-3400ft) above the plan and the lakes : these summits are well known to Lombardic climbers and hikers as they are good destinations for "out of season" climbing activities, walking, hiking, climbing, sport climbing and .. paragliding :)
They are : from south : the Cornizzolo, the Corno Rai, the Corni di Canzo and, in the eastern part, bordered by Lecco branch of Como Lake, the Moregallo



Moregallo, is a strange name ... giving a look to it I can imagine its name is coming from old latin language : more (like) gallo (cock) because when seen from the plane its skiline looks just as a cock crest ... pinnacles, rugged ridges, steep channels full of grass, bushes and small trees, and, first of all, some rocky spurs made of good white limestone offering any kind of difficulties.
Its wide summit hosts a Cross, a Madonna statue, a topographic sign and, on the NE border, a fine wood where to relax in the warm spring or autumn days and try to survive in the hot summer days.



From its summit some very fine views of Prealpi, of Como Lake and, of course, of the whole Alps ridge from Monte Rosa (west) to Adamello (east)



Getting There

Normal approach for the most used paths are from Valmadrera
From Milano - SS 36 (Spluga) till Valmadrera.
You must leave the SS 36 before the first tunnel, having on your right side a small lake, when on the old road to Lecco, at the first traffic light you have to turn to the left, and go straight along till a square (newspaper kiosk), now on the left and suddenly to the right (via Leopardi), at the fork, to the right (Via S.Carlo Borromeo) then along the road that leads you to Belvedere (290m) when you can park (if you're lucky) your car.
From here the starting point of paths 6 and 7 that lead toward the mountain, 1000 m above you.
Other approaches can be used,
  • from Canzo in Valassina (railroad from Milano - FNM) wherefrom, along the path starting from Gajum you can reach the Rifugio SEV (on the western side of Moregallo and Northern side of Corni di Canzo)
  • from the road that leads from Civate to Bellagio, on the W side of Lecco branch of Como lake, (paths starting from here are almost forgotten, not easy to find and not always safe ... good only for hunters and mushroom pickers)



    Routes overview

    No very easy way to the summit, that is normally got along 3 different routes :



  • the path 6 that, starting from the "fountain of Sambrosera" (about 700m) goes to the right (East), becomes immediatly narrow and steep and leads, passing under a big vertical tower, to a notch (wonderful view on Resegone), crosses the steep east slopes with some exposure and, after a steep channel allows to get the small saddle on the E ridge (marks). Turning on the left you get the last meadows just beneath the summit.
    2 hours from Belvedere - for hikers, good for going on, not so much for coming down if you have any problem with your knees.

  • the GG OSA ridge, a uneven rocky route (difficulties up to 4° UIAA) that starts from the path above described (mark) - good for novice rocky climbers.
    - - -

  • the path 7 that, going toward the Rifugio SEV across a wood where you may expect to meet some elves, leads you to the Bocchetta di Sambrosera (1110m) wherefrom, on the right, a path crosses the south grassy slopes (beneath the rocky ridge) with some exposure, and leads till about 60m under the summit; here some fixed chains allow to climb some short vertical rocky channels and give access to the summit ridge.
    3 hours from Belvedere - for expert hikers, the best route for coming down

    some more pics

    someone voted them low but I think they' re useful

    When To Climb

    avoid hot sunny days of summer ....

    Camping

    no need, all routes can be done directly from the car parkings

    Mountain Conditions

    mountain is always in conditions to be climbed ...
    for meteo here you can find the local forecasts

    External Links

    Images