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Eagle Ridge (summer)
Route

Eagle Ridge (summer)

 
Eagle Ridge (summer)

Page Type: Route

Location: Cairngorms, Scotland, Europe

Object Title: Eagle Ridge (summer)

Route Type: Classic Rock Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Severe

Route Quality: 
 - 8 Votes
 

 

Page By: Iain Munro

Created/Edited: May 31, 2004 / Jun 1, 2004

Object ID: 161094

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Length of Climb


250m

History


First Ascent :
Summer 1941 J.H.Bell and N.Forsyth ( 1 point of aid used )

Second Ascent : (Possibly Free)
July 1944 : S.Thompson and Mrs. Thompson

Third Ascent : (First Recorded Free Ascent)
1949 : W.D.Brooker and D.Sutherland

Approach


From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. Eagle Ridge is the long tapering ridge rising in a series of towers and aretes to the right of Douglas - Gibson Gully.

Route Description


This is a superb climb, by far the best rock climb on the cliff and definately one of the best of its grade in the country.

Start at the foot of Douglas-Gibson Gully and climb an obvious groove for 20m. The climbing eases as you ascend a shallow gully with a short, awkward chimney heading to the Eagle Buttress face. Trend back up left to the crest by a choice of lines which all go by a short 10m corner on the right. The ridge now steepens at a 15m tower. Swing up right to a recess then continue up steep rock going left to a sentry box, this makes a good belay. The following pitch follows a smooth arete finishing up a small corner to a ledge on the crest. Don't go any further right but follow the crest over a fin of rock known as "the Whaleback" for 20m to a slabby corner with a ledge at mid-height. The top of the corner ends in a knife edge ridge forming a crest. The crux pitch is the vertical wall at the top of the knife edge. By a crack on the left climb the wall to reach another arete. Climb this by the crest to a square cut overhang. From here swing up onto a slab above and from some cracked blocks make a fairly difficult mantleshelf into a recess. Now the main difficulties are over and you finish up the last slabs which dip into Douglas-Gibson Gully before finishing on the plateau.

Essential Gear


Normal kit including:
>Waterproofs
>Map (OS Landranger44 or Explorer388)
>Compass

Climbing gear including:
>full summer rack

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

the first pitch on eagle ridge