Length of Climb
First Ascent :
Summer 1941 J.H.Bell and N.Forsyth ( 1 point of aid used )
Second Ascent : (Possibly Free)
July 1944 : S.Thompson and Mrs. Thompson
Third Ascent : (First Recorded Free Ascent)
1949 : W.D.Brooker and D.Sutherland
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. Eagle Ridge is the long tapering ridge rising in a series of towers and aretes to the right of Douglas - Gibson Gully.
This is a superb climb, by far the best rock climb on the cliff and definately one of the best of its grade in the country.
Start at the foot of Douglas-Gibson Gully and climb an obvious groove for 20m. The climbing eases as you ascend a shallow gully with a short, awkward chimney heading to the Eagle Buttress face. Trend back up left to the crest by a choice of lines which all go by a short 10m corner on the right. The ridge now steepens at a 15m tower. Swing up right to a recess then continue up steep rock going left to a sentry box, this makes a good belay. The following pitch follows a smooth arete finishing up a small corner to a ledge on the crest. Don't go any further right but follow the crest over a fin of rock known as "the Whaleback" for 20m to a slabby corner with a ledge at mid-height. The top of the corner ends in a knife edge ridge forming a crest. The crux pitch is the vertical wall at the top of the knife edge. By a crack on the left climb the wall to reach another arete. Climb this by the crest to a square cut overhang. From here swing up onto a slab above and from some cracked blocks make a fairly difficult mantleshelf into a recess. Now the main difficulties are over and you finish up the last slabs which dip into Douglas-Gibson Gully before finishing on the plateau.
Normal kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger44 or Explorer388)
Climbing gear including:
>full summer rack
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