Length of climb
28 March 1948 : G.W.Ross and R.Still
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here Parallel Gully A is the left hand of two gullies which run side by side (parallel !!) up the cliff, 258 degrees from the first aid box.
The gully can either be completely banked out or have several long ice pitches.To enter the gully directly climb 30m of steep ice or alternatively traverse more easily in from the left. There is a choice of lines above, the best being to climb up left on ice to a long stretch of steep snow, which is climbed to a fork in the gully. A rising traverse leftwards leads to the straight forward left fork, the cornice is usually passable on the left. The right fork is more difficult (Grade IV).
Normal winter kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Survival / bivi bag
Essential climbing gear:
> 2 ice axes
>Good selection and range of sizes of rock protection
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