Raeburn's Gully

Length of climb

200m

First Ascent

12 November 1898 : H.Raeburn, J.Rennie and H.Lawson (Summer)

27 December 1932 : G.R.Symmers, A.W.Clark and W.A.Ewen (Winter)

The first winter climb on the mountain to be completed after the Great War

Approach

From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. Raeburn's Gully is the obvious deep gully slanting up to the left from the foot of The Black Spout. (Bearing is 278 degrees from the 1st aid box)

Route Description

Early in the season before fully snowed up the gully holds a lot of ice and becomes much harder (grade III). Once fully banked out the gully holds one ice pitch. The cornice is often very large and sometimes you are best to traverse left and finish up the Tough-Brown Ridge.

IMPORTANT: This gully is in the lee of the prevailing wind and thus it is prone to avalanche.

Essential Gear

Normal winter kit including:
>Full waterproofs
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Compass
>Headtorch
>Survival / bivi bag

Climbing gear required
>Ice axes
>Crampons
>Helmet
>Selection of rock protection
>Ice screws
>Slings
>Snow stake / deadman's belay

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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