This is one of the most frequently visited mountains of the Silvretta group, positioned on the Austrian Swiss border. It has very good possibilities for ski mountaineering (long steep descents into the Val Tuoi) and snow shoeing. Like many Austrian mountains it has a huge metal cross on the summit. The view from the summit is spectacular, with far to the south the Ortler and the Bernina, and more close the Piz Linard, Piz Buin, Silvrettahorn and Fluchthorn.
The mountain can be reached from the Austrian as well as the Swiss side.
- From the Austrian side the first part of the route is an easy glacier tour over the Jamtalferner starting at the Jamtalhütte (2165m) and ending at one of the passes NW or E of the mountain. The glacier is heavily crevassed and requires full glacier travel equipment, including rope (also in winter). From the pass NW of the Hintere Jam Spitze (Jamjoch; 3078m) or from the SE (Fuorcla Tuoi; 3065m) the summit can easily be reached by a short rock scramble.
- From the Swiss side the route starts at the Tuoi Hütte (2250m), and follows the valleys to the Jamjoch or the Fuorcla Tuoi. There are tiny glaciers at the end of these valleys with hardly any crevasses. Due to retreating glaciers on the Swiss side, in warm summers with little snow left there can be some difficulties to gain the Jamjoch from the glacier (Vadret de Tuoi) on the Swiss side. Then the route over the Fuorcla Tuoi might be an easier way. From the Fuorcla Tuoi, traverse below the N-face of the Hintere Jamspitze (crevasses!) and gain the summit.
From the Austrian side the Jamtalhütte is a good starting point. It can be reached by a signposted track from Galtür (3.5 hours walk). Galtür has bus connections to Landeck. Phone: ++43 05443 40814. website: http://www.jamtalhuette.at/
From the Swiss side the Tuoi Hütte is the best climbing base. This small and nice hut is built just below the giant S-face of the Piz Buin, which colors red in the late afternoon sun, There is a signposted path to the hut from Guarda (3 hours walk). Guarda has a railways station. Phone: ++41 081 8622322. website: http://www.jo-sac.ch/engiadinabassa/tuoi.html
Galtür (Austria) connects by bus or car to Landeck. Guarda (Switserland) is on the train line between Scuol and Landquart.
When To Climb
This mountain can be climbed all year long. In winter there is a serious avalanche danger that should be watched (Remember the tragic events during winter 1998/1999 in the Jamtal).
There are a few campings and many hotels in the Inn and Paznaun valleys.
- Alpenvereinskarte Blatt 26 Silvrettagruppe (1:25:000)
- LKS map 249 Tarasp (1:50:000)
- Günther Flaig. Silvretta Alpenvereinsführer alpin. 11th edition 1996, Rother, München ISBN 3-7633-1097-5
- Bergtouren und Hüttenübergange in der Silvretta vom Madlenerhaus und der Wiesbadener Hütte. 1996, DAV Wiesbaden.