Piz Buin, the highest peak of the Austrian Province of Vorarlberg, is not the highest peak of Silvretta : its the third highest after Piz Linard and Fluchthorn.
Piz Buin can be reached from Austria from the Wiesbadener hut, crossing the Vermunt glacier, climbing up the Wiesbadener ridge and hiking over the Ochsentaler glacier to the Buin gap. From the gap there is a zigzag walk to the top, with only a 20 m (65 ft) steep step to surmount before reaching the relatively flat summit space, which has an old wooden cross on the very top. The border between Switzerland and Austria crosses the summit from East to West.
Piz Buin is located between the Fuocla dal Cunfin (collar), 3043 m in the west and Vermuntpass, 2797 m in the east. The extension of the north ridge is called Wiesbacher Grätle and separates the huge glaciers of Ochsental and Vermunt.
Piz Buin is a double summit : in the east Grand Piz Buin reaches 3312 m, Little Piz Buin in the west has 3255 m. The collar between the two is called Buinlücke (3058 m).
Very popular in summer and winter. Very good skiers can reach the top by skies.
The name Piz Buin has also been taken, as its trade mark, by a sun cream firm, which had its headquarters in Vorarlberg and is well known all over the world.
1) From Austria
Bielerhöhe 2030 m (Austria) can be reached from either Galtür or Partenen, by going over the Silvrettahochalpenstrasse. Because it is possible to stay for more than one day up in the mountais there whitout coming down, the best thing to do is to take your ticket with you to the hut and let them put a stamp on it.
Galtür is situated in the Paznauntal and can be reached from Insbruck. The best way to go to Partenen is to go by Bludenz.
2) From Switzerland
To reach the Swiss side of Piz Buin, you have to go in one of the remotest but very beautiful places in Switserland: Unterengadin in Graubunden.
With public traffic: With the railway up to Landquart, then and far over monasteries, Vereinatunnel transfer for Guarda station, afterwards with post office car for Guarda.
With PW over auto+continue to ship Vereina to station Sagliains or over the Flueelapass, then after Guarda. (parking lot before the village). The Flueelapass is closed in the winter. Journey from Germany and Austria over landhit a corner direction pc. Moritz until Guarda. Journey from the Oberengadin direction Scuol until Guarda
There are many possible routes to the top of the Piz Buin.
1. From the Wiesbadnerhütte (2443 m) across the Vermunt glacier and then a little bit of rockclimbing at the Wiesbadnergrätle and further to the Buinlücke (3056 m). From the Buinlücke traverse through the West face to the nord-west ridge. From there just scramble up to the summit. 4 hours
2. From the Wiesbadnerhütte across the right side of the Ochsentaler glacier (beware: many crevases!) and then to the Buinlücke.Further: see 1.
3. From Chamanna Tuoi (2250 m; Switserland) beneath the Cronsel, over Plan Rai to the Fuorcla Dal Cunfin (3043 m). Then to the Buinlücke and then like 1. 5 hours
4. From the Silvretta hütte (2339 m) over the Silvretta glacier (many crevases) to the Fuorcla dal Cunfin and then like 3. 4 hours
5. When none of these routes is difficult enough for you, try the couloir between the little and grand Piz Buin. In late summer the snow up there can become icy. There is possible rockfall.
6. With skis. It is not possible to reach the top with ski on feet. Skiers leave their boards at the Buinluecke or some meters above and do the last scramble without. The last 50 m ascent would be again possible with ski but it is not worth carriing them. (Mathias Zehring)
There is a fee to be payed to reach Bielerhöhe by car.
Mountain guide recommended for people making the tour for the first time. Use ropes, crampons and an ice axe. In summer start at about 6 to 7 o'clock so that you have good snow.
When To Climb
July,August and September are the best when dry.
In winter with skis
Camping is ok, but no campingsites nearby.
On the swiss side there is no in Guarda, so you better buy your food in Davos or Chur. For the Austrian side, buy your food in either Partenen or Galtür.
-Wiesbadener Hut 2443 m
-Chamonna Tuoi Hut 2250 m
From Guarda, it is a 2,5 hours walk up to the Chamanna Tuoi.
- Silvretta Huts 2341 m
PIZ BUIN® traces its origin back to the inspiration of Franz Greiter, a young chemistry student, who suffered severe sunburn while climbing Piz Buin, in 1938. He decided to try to solve the problem and in a small laboratory in his parents’ home he formulated a product to protect the skin from the adverse effects of the sun, a product which would become known as PIZ BUIN®.
First ascent by J.A. Specht, J. Weilenmann, Pöll & Pfitcher in 1865.
Trip from Wiesbadener Hütte to Piz Buin. Route description with pictures (in German)