Welcome to SP!  -
Hochschijen
Mountain/Rock

Hochschijen

 
Hochschijen

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.66330°N / 8.49475°E

Object Title: Hochschijen

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Elevation: 8641 ft / 2634 m

 

Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: Jun 2, 2004 / Sep 27, 2010

Object ID: 152671

Hits: 6123 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

 

Hochschijen from the southwest
From the southwest

 
the 3 schijenen (guards)
Setting from the south

Overview

The Hochschijen is a small multi-towered peak located just east of the Schijenstock and the Bergseeschijen near the Bergseehütte above the end of the Göschenen Valley. The South Ridge of the Hochschijen (IV+) is one of the classic climbs in the area. At least 11 sport climbing routes have been established on the West Tower of the peak.


Getting There

 
Bergsee and the Bergseehütte.
Bergsee & Bergseehütte
Enlarge for detail

From Göschenen. there is a taxi service (minibus), (Göscheneralp/Hotel Damagletscher Alpentaxi, Tel: 041 / 885 11 80 ) to the end of the valley. Reservations are necessary. From Hotel Dammagletscher, it is a 1.5 to 2 hour hike to the Bergseehut.

If you are travelling by car, you might be able to buy a permit to continue driving to Hotel Dammagletscher and park at the trailhead to the hut.

Topo Map: Go to Swiss Geo (link below). In the box upper left, click on "Themen"; among the choices that appear, click on "Unterkunft" and in the next menu "SAC Hütte". Enter "Bergsee" in the name box and bring up the map. You will need to zoom in one click for the peak names to appear - the Hochschijen is at the far right of the map.

Swiss Geo Maps

Routes Overview

 
Hochschijen, main features
 

South Ridge IV+ about 370 m. Fantastic ridge climbing with a few pitches of somewhat less than fantastic rock in between. Belay points are fixed and there is some fixed protection. The crux (IV+) is located on the south face of the second tower. One rappels or descends a very dubious (in 1999) fixed line off the first tower and downclimbs the second tower. It is only about 45 minutes from the hut to the base of the climb. Descent is via rappels down the face of the summit pinnacle and the west tower.

Westgratturm (West Ridge Tower) - around 11 very well protected sport routes up to VI+ in difficulty have been established on the excellent granite of this tower.

Additional information regarding climbing in the area of the hut is available at the Bergseehütte Web Page.








Climbing on the South Ridge
 
Hochschijen South Ridge
Pitch 1
 
Bas descending from the first...
Descent first tower
 
Hochschijen South Ridge crux pitch
Crux pitch
 
Fred leading the summit...
Summit pitch


When To Climb

 
Hochschijen Topo
Topo - enlarge for detail

Early June through October, weather and snow conditions permitting

Overnight

It is possible to climb in the area from the valley and there are numerous hotels available in Göschenen and the immediate area well as in Andermatt (about 1/2 hour by car or train from Göschenen). Camping places are also available in Gwuest.

The most convenient lodging is at the Bergseehütte.

Images

the 3 schijenen (guards)Climbers on the HochschijenHochschijen skylineFred leading the summit...Hochschijen S ridgeHochschijen from the southwestHochschijen South Ridge crux pitch
Bergsee and the Bergseehütte.Hochschijen, main featuresHochschijen South RidgeBas descending from the first...Hochschijen TopoThe loose middle section of...Myself at the start of the...