Lochberg 3074 m
Climbing Lochberg, a mighty castle-tower situated in right-hand side of Winterstock Turm, from which this peak is separate by the saddle named Winterlucke mt. 2854, is only one amongst the numberless climbing possibilities in the magnificent Furkapass area. In its northern side Lochberg has a small glacier in strong retreat; in southwestern side the peak shows a fine varied face, situated in front of Albert Heim Hut, having some trad and sportive climbing routes. Its not short approach gives to the climber a solitary adventure.
Getting ThereFrom Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard northern exit, take the road towards Furkapass; before reaching the pass the road gets to Tiefenbach Hotel situated along the road on the east side of Furkapass. A few hundred meters past the hotel follow towards right an unsurfaced road rising to the Tatsch parking m. 2270; a ticket must be payed to use this road (camping is not allowed in Tatsch).
Red TapeNo particulary restriction in climbing and hiking. An entrance fee is due to get the Tatsch parking, where free camping is not allowed.
Difficulty: TD inf., F5c 350 mt.
Equipment: trad (pegs)
Climbing length:350 mt
First ascent: F. Haider – S. Inwyler 1958
A classic trad route along steep and excellent granite.
***VIA DEGLI AMICI + SW WAND EXIT
Difficulty: TD, F6a+ (F5c, 2 p.a.)
Equipment: bolts, pegs (SW EXIT)
Climbing length:350 mt
First ascent: Richi Arnold – Karl Stadler 1998
A varied climb over excellent rock equipped with bolts; SW WAND EXIT is not much equipped.
VIA DEGLI AMICI + SW WAND EXIT REPORT
One can access to the cliff directly from Tatsch parking m. 2270; otherwise it’s possible and very pleasant to spend the night at Albert Heim Hutte m. 2541 SAC (Swiss Alpin Club), open in summer.
Approach to Albert Heim Hutte – From Tatsch a good marked path leads to Albert Heim Hutte (1 hour and 15 minutes from the parking). It’s possible approach Lochberg reaching the hut and from here proceeding on a track towards East, but it’s quicker approaching Lochberg directly from Tatsch.
Lochberg direct approach - From Tatsch, instead of the Albert Heim path, head towards right (East) walking along a mainly level military road, leading to a small alpine hut, where the road ends. From here a track rises into a valley in the direction of Lochberg and Winterstock Turm. When you're getting to a characteristic marked fork, leave on your left-hand side the main path to Albert Heim Hut and Nepali Highway and head to right rising along steep stony ground. At a new fork before a snowfields head towards right, taking the trail in the direction of Lochbergluche, the saddle situated in right-hand side of Lochberg; rise a bit along this trail then leave it and go towards left. A last steep snowfield leads at the route’s starting point below a corner (1 hour and 45 minutes from Tatsch).
L1 – 5b, 50 mt.
L2 – 5a, 35 mt.
L3 – Now the climb becomes steeper 5b, 50 mt.
L4 – 5b, 50 mt.
L5 – 5b, 35 mt.
L6 – 5c+ 2 p.a. (6a+), 35 mt.
L7 – 5a, 40 mt.
From the seventh belay – route book – there are two options:
A- to end the climb without rising at Lochberg summit. In this case scramble a bit towards left – facing out – to reach the abseil line and gain the base of the face with seven abseils.
B- to reach the summit by climbing the upper section of SW Wand (longer, but very satisfactory). From the route-book climb a difficult chimney-crack, then up other three easier pitches along the summital ridge leading on the summit.
Descent: from the summit go down along a stones’ gully, then head to right – facing out – to reach the West ridge leading to Winterlucke, the saddle between Lochberg and Winterstock Turm. A marked track goes down towards S (2 hours from the top to Albert Heim Hut).
Guidebooks and maps
"Schweiz Plaisir Ost" by Jurg von Kanel - Edition Filidor
HutALBERT HEIM HÜTTE mt. 2541 - SAC SEKTION UTO
ALBERT HEIM HÜTTE
ALBERT HEIM HUT