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Uri Alps Group
Area/Range

Uri Alps Group

 
Uri Alps Group

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Uri/Bern/Graubünden, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.64430°N / 8.42160°E

Object Title: Uri Alps Group

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Skiing

Elevation: 11906 ft / 3629 m

 

Page By: Lortnoc

Created/Edited: Dec 15, 2005 / May 16, 2007

Object ID: 155149

Hits: 16763 

Page Score: 87.4%  - 25 Votes 

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Index

This page is still under construction. Comments and pictures are most welcome. Thank you!

Index
-Introduction
-Overview of subgroups
-Getting there
-Red tape
-When to climb
-Camping & Sleeping
-Books & Maps
-Subgroup description

Introduction

The Urner Alps are located in the district of Uri, hence the name, in central Switzerland. This group is famous for its beautifull granite that can stand comparison with Mt. Blanc or Bergell granite. The highest peak of the area is the Dammastock with 3629 meters. The Rhone river finds its source in the glaciers of the Urner Alps.

The earth has formed many jagged ridges and sharp peaks in these mountains which offer both plaisir or extreme rock climbs. Most famous plaisir route is maybe the Salbitschijen S-grat. The most famous extreme ridge and maybe on of the most beautifull ridges in the alps is the on the same mountain: the Salbitschijen W-ridge.

The approach is very varied in this area, it is possible to avoid glacier travel and still do some awesome rock-routes or you can cross glaciers for as long as you want.

The area is not only famous for it's rockclimbing possibilities in the summer but also for skitouring in the winter. The ascent from the Furkapass to the Dammastock is one of the most popular ski tours in the Alps.

The group described on this page (which follows the geographical boundaries) is located between the three most popular passes is Switserland: Sustenpass in the north, Furkapass is in the south and Grimselpass in the west. The east boundary is formed by the Reuss valley. Some people consider the Uri Alps group as a bigger group bordered by the Vierwaldstätter See in the north, the Reuss valley in the east, the Furka- and Grimselpasses in the south and the Brünigpass in the west. Many mountains that fit in the latter category are attached to this site but do not consist of the compact granite of the central Uri Alps.


Overview of subgroups


1. Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock-ridge
2. Dammastock-ridge
3. Galenstock-ridge
4. Tierberg-ridge
5. Gletschhorn-Schöllenen-ridge
6. Sustenhorn-Bergseeschijen-ridge
7. Fleckistock-ridge
8. Salbitschijen

Getting There

You can reach the group from many different directions:

From north: Luzern > A2/E35 > Sustenpass (exit Wassen) or Furkapass (exit Andermatt)

From east: Disentis / Müster > N19 > Andermatt

From south: Milano > A8/E35 > A9/E35 > A2/E35 (Switzerland) > Andermatt

From west: Thun > A8 > Innertkirchen

Red Tape

No permits required. Most passes are closed from november till may.

Usefull resources

Planning tools:

General:
Basislager.ch - Actual winter and summer conditions
Swiss Avalanche Forecast
Weather:
Swiss Webcams
Weather Radar
Live Cam
Five Day Forecast

Swiss Mountain Rescue:
REGA
In Switserland call 1414 fo help.

Useful telephone numbers:
117 Police
118 Fire Department
144 Ambulance

General Information:
1811 Adress information on doctors i.e..
140 Road Rescue (like ADAC, ANWB etc.)
162 Weather Bulletin
163 Traffic Information
187 Avalanche Bulletin

When to Climb

Seasons
Climbing & Hiking:
July-October
If the weather is really hot in spring it may be possible to do some ridges in june.

Skiing:
March-June


Camping & Sleeping

Huts:
Name Ridge Bewartet Tel. number
Gelmerhütte Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock July - September 033 973 11 80
Windegghütte Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock-Tierberg Spring - Fall 033 975 11 10
Trifthütte Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock-Tierberg March - September 033 975 12 28
Albert-Heim hütte Galenstock-Gletschhorn-Schöllenen June - Oktober 041 887 17 45
Sidelenhütte Galenstock June - Oktober 041 887 02 33
Dammahütte Dammastock July - September 041 885 17 81
Tierberglihütte Tierberg July - September 033 971 27 82
Chelenalphütte Tierberg-Sustenhorn June - Oktober 041 885 19 30
Bergseehütte Sustenhorn-Bergseeschijen June - Oktober 041 885 14 35
Voralphütte Sustenhorn-Fleckistock   041 870 88 34
Salbithütte Salbitschijen June - Oktober 041 885 14 31


Campsites:

Zeltplatz Matli - Göscheneralp

Gotthard Camping - Andermatt

Books & Maps

Books:
  • Clubführer Urner Alpen. Bd.2, T. Fullin & A. Bahnholzer, ISBN: 3-85902-222-9
  • Schweiz Plaisir Ost, J. von Känel, ISBN: 3-906087-15-8
  • Salbit Erleben, H. Berger, ISBN: 3-906087-21-2

Maps:

Landeskarte der Schweiz: 1:25.000:
  • 1210 Innertkirchen
  • 1211 Meiental
  • 1230 Guttanen
  • 1231 Urseren

1:50.000:
  • 255 Sustenpass

1. Gelmerhörner-Tieralplistock-ridge

Description:
This area boasts some excellent mid-grade rock climbs, for example the traverse of the Chli and Grosses Gelmerhorn, traverse of the Gelmerspitzen, the Burg NW-ridge. More difficult rock routes are to be found on Gelmerspitze V, VI and VII and the Gärstenhorn. In the winter the area around the Trifhütte offers a lot of skitouring possibilities to the main-ridge.
Maps:
Guttanen 1230 1:25.000
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000

Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Vorderes Gärstenhorn 3166  
Mittleres Gärstenhorn 3189  
Hinteres Gärstenhorn 3172  
Schoibhoren 2683  
Gelmerhörner 3317  
Alpliturm 3043  
Burg 2598 Not in Landeskarte
Tieralplistock 3383  
Diechterhorn 3389  
Gwächtenhorn 3214  
Ofenhoren 2493  
Mittagflue 1865  
Wyler- und Bottiger-Dümen 1642  
Bänzlauistock 2529  
Brunnenstock 2519  
Graustock 2689  
Mährenhorn 2922  
Steinhüshorn 3121  
Chilchlistock 3114  

Passes

Name Height (m) Comments
Obri Triftlimi 3101 Rhoneglacier / Triftglacier
Undri Triftlimi 3075 Rhoneglacier / Triftglacier
Gelmerlimi 3000/3100 Handegg / Rhoneglacier, E one is the best.
Diechterlimi 3215 Diechtertal / Triftglacier
Gwächtenlimi 3100 Gelmerhütte / Trift- & Windegghütte
Üssri Garwydilimi 2685 Guttanen / Diechtertal
Indri Garwydilimi 2684 Guttanen / Diechtertal
Furtwangsattel 2568 Rindertal / Trifttäli
Chichlilimi 2952 Rotlauital / Triftglacier

2. Dammastock-ridge

Description:
This area is home of the highest summit of the area: the Dammastock. This area is unlike some other areas in the Uri alps not so much the domain of the alpine rock climber but more of the general alpinist. The east flanks of the ridge from Tiefenstock to the Dammastock offer beatiful combined outings. In the winter some tours are to be made from the Rhone glacier, for example to the Eggstock, Rhonestock and Dammastock.
Maps:
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000

Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Tiefenstock 3515  
Vorderer Rhonestock 3566  
Hinterer Rhonestock 3596  
Dammastock 3629  
Scheestock 3608  
Eggstock 3583  
Moosstock 2611 Bad weather alternative
Dammaplatten 2811 Bad weather alternative

Passes

Name Height (m) Comments
Tiefensattel S 3406 Between Galenstock and Tiefenstock
Tiefensattel N 3335 Between Galenstock and Tiefenstock
Unteres Winterjoch 3425 Between Tiefenstock and Vorderem Rhonestock
Oberes Winterjoch 3525 Between Vorderer- and Hinterer Rhonestock
Rhonejoch 3519 Between Rhonestock and Dammapass
Dammapass 3525 Between Rhonestock and Dammastock
Dammajoch 3560 Between Dammastock and Scheestock

3. Galenstock-ridge

Description:
This is an area with excellent ridge climbs, both on rock or in combined terrain. Examples in rock are the Gross Bielenhorn SE-ridge and the Chli Bielenhorn SW-ridge. The Galenstock offers the excellent SE-ridge.
Maps:
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000

Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Klein Furkahorn 3026  
Gross Furkahorn 3169  
Galengrat   P. 3235 offers some great climbing.
Galenstock 3583  
Gross Bielenhorn 3206  
Chli Bielenhorn 2940  

Passes

Name Height (m) Comments
Sidelengratlücke 2980 Rhoneglacier / Sidelenglacier
Sidelenlücke 3120 Rhoneglacier / Sidelenglacier
Obere Bielenlücke 3225  
Mittlere Bielenlücke 2980  
Untere Bielenlücke 2900 Albert Heim hütte / Sidelenhütte


4. Tierberg-ridge

Maps:
Guttanen 1230 1:25.000
Innertkirchen 1210 1:25.000
Meiental 1211 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000


Summits

NameHeight (m) Comments
Sunnighoren 2412  
Radlefshoren 2603  
Graue Stöckli 2776  
Drosistock 2822  
Giglistock 2900  
Brunnenstock 2763  
Vorder Tierberg 3091  
Mittler Tierberg 3311  
Hinter Tierberg 3447  
Maasplangstock 3401  

Passes

Name Height (m) Comments
Steinlimi 2734 Steinglacier / Windegg- & Trifthütte
Tierberglücke 2986 Tierberg- & Chelenalphütte / Triftgletscher
Chelenlücke 3203 Chelenalp / Tierberghütte

5. Gletschhorn-Schöllenen-ridge

Maps:
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000


Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Gletschhorn 3305  
Graue Wand p. 3172  
Winterstock 3203  
Lochberg 3074  
Blauberg 2955  
Müeterlishorn 3066  
Hinter Feldschijen 3021  
Vorder Feldschijen 2962  
Mittagstock 2989  

6. Sustenhorn-Bergseeschijen-ridge

Maps:
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Meiental 1211 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000


Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Sustenspitz 2930  
Chli Sustenhorn 3318  
Sustenhorn 3203  
Vordere Sustenlimihorn 3316  
Brunnenstock 3210  
Voralphorn 3203  
Chelenalphorn 3202  
Hoch Horefellistock 3021  
Schijenstock 3161  
Bergseeschijen 2815  
Hochschijen 2634  
Gandschijen 2388  
Gwächtenhorn 3420  

7. Fleckistock ridge

Maps:
Meiental 1211 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000


Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Chli Griessenhorn 2851  
Gross Griessenhorn 3202  
Stucklistock 3308  
Fleckistock / Rot Stock 3416  
Chüeplanggenstock 3207  
Rorspitzli 3220  
Spitzli 3011  

8. Salbitschijen

Maps:
Meiental 1211 1:25.000
Urseren 1231 1:25.000
Sustenpass 255 1:50.000


Summits

Name Height (m) Comments
Salbitschijen main summit 2981  
Salbitzahn 2728 Lowest tower in the S-ridge
Plattenturm 2900 Tower in S-ridge
Zwillingsturm 2920 Tower in S-ridge
Meiggelenstock 2448  
Meiggelenplatte 2405  
Meiggelengrat 2512  

Images