OverviewSchijenstock (Schijen means guard in the local dialect) is a 3000 meter peak of the finest granite set in the middle of some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dammastock-Sustenhorn group. It offers many routes of all levels of difficulty, from the normal route up the SE-ridge (UIAA I), to the classic S-Ridge at UIAA III to IV- (5.3 to 5.5) to the extremely difficult routes up the SE face (V+ and higher). Part of the Sustenhorn-Bergsee chain, it is accessed from the end of the Göschenen Valley. The SAC hut Bergsee serves as the base for this climb. See the piece of the topo map.
Getting TherePublic Transportation
Take the train from Luzern to Göschenen. If coming from the south, you will need to reach Andermatt or come through the Gotthard Tunnel. From there take a private minibus, for which reservations are mandatory (Göscheneralp/Hotel Damagletscher Alpentaxi, Tel: 041 / 885 11 80 ) to get to the end of the valley. From Hotel Dammagletscher, it is a 1.5 to 2 hour hike to the Bergseehut.
You can drive to Göschenen. At this time, I think one may continue or buy a permit to continue driving to Hotel Dammagletscher and park at the trailhead to the hut.
When To ClimbEarly June through October, weather and snow conditions permitting.
Routes SummarySE-ridge normal route. 3 hours from Bergsee hut. Easy climb with some scrambling. Used for the descent.
S - ridge This is a classic and very long ridge climb that directly traverses 9 towers. First ascended by Gerecht, Meier and Wörndle in 1948. The climbing is UIAA III to IV- (5.3 to about 5.5) and supposedly takes 5 to 6 hours to climb. The approach from the hut takes 2 hours. However, many underestimate its sustained nature and thus take far longer. You must be able to climb efficiently with short leads and climb unprotected along the easier stretches. Most belay points are already fixed.
SE-face This face was first climbed 1949 by Boller and Regli. An ice axe is necessary for the approach and the face should only be climbed when there is no snow in the middle section. There are at least 5 routes, nothing easier than UIAA V+ (5.9+) Descent by the normal route or there is a fixed rappel "piste" over the route "Il tempo vola"
There are various hotels in the Göschenen valley as well as Andermatt (about 1/2 hour by car or train from Göschenen). Camping places are also available in Gwuest.
The Bergsee hut is the only hut from which to reasonably to access this climb. It has sleeping places for 70 and is very popular, so reservations are recommended. There are numerous climbs such as Bergseeschijen, and Hochschijen as well as a well developed sport climbing area (Klettergarten). From Hotel Dammagletscher, follow the trail to the hut. It first ascends a steep step to a long terrace with protected wetlands before ascending a second slope to the hut.
The mountain guide and guidebook author Toni Fullin and his wide Maria are currently the hut wardens.