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Eggstock
Mountain/Rock

Eggstock

 
Eggstock

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Urner Alpen, Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Eggstock

Elevation: 11745 ft / 3580 m

 

Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Nov 21, 2003 / Dec 6, 2006

Object ID: 152085

Hits: 5253 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.

The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.

Overview

The Eggstock is a somewhat unknown summit of the Dammastock-group at the central part of the Urner Alpen at Switzerland. Other well known mountains of that area beside the Dammastock are the Galenstock or the Rhonestock (3596 m).

"Egg" is is Swiss dialect for corner, it's obvious that this name comes from the location of the mountain.

The whole group is rising NE of the Rhone-glacier, which is among the biggest glaciers of the european alps. The summit of the Eggstock is part of a huge rock ridge containing all the main summits of the area. This main rock ridge starts close to the Sustenpass with the Tierberg (3447 m) and ends up at the Furkahorn close to the Furkapass, which is well known for its great granite climbs. The central part of this ridge from the Tiefensattel to the Maasplanggjoch with the main summits Dammastock, Schneestock and Eggstock is also called "Winterberg".

While the W-side of the Eggstock consists of harmless glacier slopes, the E-side of the mountain and also of the whole mountain range shows a big, steep and wild rock and snow face above the famous Göschener Tal (Göschener valley). The southern neighbour of the Eggstock is the Winterstock which is connected with it's S-ridge to the Dammastock itself. Seend from the Dammahütte the Eggstock is the last visible summit at the northern part of the main Dammastock-ridge .

The regular route of the Eggstock goes up the W-flank from the Belvedere at the Furka Pass via the Rhonegletscher as for the Dammastock and is rated WS (6 hours from to the Belvedere summit).

Getting There

There are two main starting points: for the west side of the Eggstock the common starting point is the Belvedere at the road of the Furka-Pass which is connecting the upper Rhonetal with the central part of Switzerland. You may reach the Furka Pass and the Belvedere from

(a) Genf (airport) using the A1/A9 via Lausanne - Martigny to reach Sion. Travel up the upper Valais finally to the Furkapass.
(b) Zürich (airport) using the A3/A2 via Luzern - Andermatt - Furkapass.

For the east side of the Dammastock one has to travel to the Göschener Tal, reachable from Göschenen.

(a) From Genf (airport) as described above but continue crossing the Furkapass direction Andermatt / Göschenen.
(b) Zürich (airport) take the A3/A2 via Luzern to Göschenen (close to Andermatt).


Both trailheads are reachable by public transportation.

Red Tape

No red tape.

When To Climb

The Eggstock is climbable in summer and winter. Especially the regular route is much more fun in winter with skis instead of the long glacier hike in summer. Best time for the routes of the east face is spring/early summer when all the broken rock is covered with snow.

Hut

At the east-side the Dammahütte offers a very good possibility to spend the night. It's a very comfy hut, not electric current, no showers, no comfort, only 23 places - an archetype of a mountaineering hut, very recommended if one likes those kind of huts. The hut is reachable from Göschenen, there are two possibilities to do this: north and south of the lake (both will need about 3-4 hours). The trail south of the lake is recommended (more comfortable). After hiking along the lake one will reach the base of a little hill with the Dammahütte (visible) at the top (1-2 hours from the Göschenersee). There both lake-trails are joining. Following a steep, marked trail brings one finally to the hut.


Camping

For the west side: Several campgrounds at the upper Rhonetal.

For the east side: There is a very good campground (Zeltplatz Mattli) at the Göschener Tal. This a agood place to stay for many days of climbing and mountaineering on the granite mekka of the Göschener Tal.

Mountain Conditions

Go to Meteo Schweiz and type in Göschenen
as location gives a forecast for Göschenen.

Routes

The Eggstock is climbed very seldom, there are three main routes:

Traverse from Dammastock, L, about 1 hour from Dammastock, the only route done sometimes.
Regular route, WS, easy snow slopes, 6 hours from Belvedere/Furkapass.
E-rib, ZS, 6 hours from the Dammahütte, only recommended when covered with snow, then a good route, done very seldom (in 2003 one and only ascent for the last 7 years). For descent traverse to the Dammastock summit and abseil down the bolted E-rib route.

Guidebook and Map

SAC Clubführer Urner Alpen Band 2, ISBN 3-85902-156-7
Landeskarte der Schweiz, 1.25000, Blatt 1231 "Urseren"

Climbing at the Göschener Tal

The whole Göschener Tal is a great place for climbing, famous climbing spots in perfect granite are the Salbitschiijen, Bergseeschijen, Hochschiijen and others. All of them are easiely reachable from the big reservoir ("Göschener Stausee"). All over there are a lot multi pitch routes of all difficulties. Most routes are bolted but some friends / rocks are needed in most routes. Some of the best granite routes of europe are among this routes.

External Links

Images

Eggstock viewed from across...Tiefenstock - DammastockThe east side of the so...The Eggstock (right) and the...Traversing from Eggstock to...Sunrise at the Dammagletscher...Eggstock seen from the...
The Eggstock is located close...There seems to be a mess in...