I’m Your Huckleberry, 5.11-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

I’m Your Huckleberry is a stout route at the grade by Cochise standards.  The first pitch has a true height dependent crux (6’) and is pumpy from the ground up as most of it is a traverse.  The second pitch has a 5.10 PG13 sequence off a ledge to the first bolt.  Committing move followed by committing move on this short, but stout pitch at its grade. Committing to holds is the mental crux of this route.  The third pitch is sustained and steep at its grade. The fourth pitch offers several slab/face moves at its grade.  Inch by inch a sustained route by Cochise standards. 

Approach the standard Sheepshead trail to the base of Sheepshead and follow the path north, up and across the gully, to the southwest corner of Muttonhead.  There is a leaning boulder that creates a great shaded rope-up spot.  The bolts start on a ramp that heads east off the arete. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 115’-5.11-/ A pitch offering a variety of cruxes.  Climb the overhanging ramp on a long rightward traverse.  Horizontal traversing leads to a height dependent slot hold.  The sweet spot will be difficult to reach for anyone less than 6’ but can easily be aided through thus the A0 rating on Mp.com. Fully bolted (12).

2^nd Pitch- 50’-5.10+/ A committing and exposed move off a ledge (PG13) to clip the first bolt then up a right leaning ramp, strenuous at the grade.  Straight up easier ground above to a fixed rap.  Fully bolted (7).

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.10-/ Traverse out right on steep sequential features and then steep face climbing straight up to a rounded ledge.  Does not let up, but the holds are nice edged patina.  Fully bolted (10).

4^th Pitch- 80’-5.9/ Climb the less varnished (crumbly) rock through the bolts to a fixed rap and decent lunch ledge.  Face and slab climbing at the grade.  Fully Bolted (7).

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the route in three 60m single rope raps.  Obviously the first pitch does not need to be rapped.

Essential Gear

Dozen mix of draws and slings.  60m rope.  Route gets full sun.