OverviewWhile driving along the Grimselpass road one will see uncountable great lines and mountains to climb. One of them is the Mittagfluh. The Mittagfluh, which is located in the Uri Alps Group, is known for it's south face climbs.
The Mittagfluh one of these mountains that has received a lot more attention after the re-bolting wave in Switzerland (see this page, in German, about Plaisir Climbing). Since there are solid bolts in all of the climbs it has became one of the most frequented climbed mountains in the Uri Alps. The short descent, good rock quality and the moderate difficulties make the Mittagfluh to a very popular mountain.
So, in order to enjoy the climbs I can recommend an ascent in autumn or spring time. In summer in can be very warm and really busy. Experienced climbers can rappel down the routes, but it is far more convenient to use the normal descent. Especially if it is busy or if you're not good at rappeling.
Getting ThereTo Guttannen
Guttannen is located along the Grimselpas road (N6 between Innertkirchen and Gletsch). This road is a major connection between the Swiss Canton of Berne and Valais/Wallis. Therefore Guttannen can be easily reached by bus and car. Be aware of the fact that the Grimselpass road is closed in winter!
- See the website of the village of Guttannen for more detailed information of how to get there.
- See the website of the SBB if you're planning to travel by public transport.
To the south face
From Guttanen one has to drive in southern direction to Tschingelmad (1170 m). Here there is a good possibility to park your car (east side of the road). From the parking one can already see the south face of the Mittagfluh. There is good path to the base of the wall, which will take about 30 minutes. There is small online map available here.
RoutesThere is not a real normal route to the summit of Mittagfluh. Far most common are the climbing routes on the south face of the mountain. Therefore I will only give an overview of the south face climbs and the usual descent.
South face climbs. See this page for detailed topo.
- 1. Abadia: 6b+, A1 (6b obl.), 350 m, Yves & Claude Remy (1990).
- 2. Südkante: 5a (5a obl.), 350 m, Ernst Rufibach & Hans Streich (1963).
- 3. Durststrecke: 5b+ (5b obl.), 350m, Christian Bleuer & Rosmarie Lohner (1993).
- 4. Am Ueli sis Chueli: 5b (5a+ obl.), 350m, Oeter Schoch, Renate Kuster & Ursi Schmid (1989).
- 5. Heidi mier weidi mier beidi: 5c+ (5b+ obl.), 350m, Peter Schoch & Ursi Schmid (1990).
- 6. Loris Boxenstop: 5c+ (5c obl.), 400m, Lina, Erina, Elmar & Hans Rufibach (2003).
South face climbing
Descent: Reach the summitridge and follow this ridge in eastern direction. Just after the highest point of the summitridge (after the final pitch of Loris Boxenstop) one heads south on a small path. Follow this steep path down untill you reach the first rappel, which is close to a waterfall. Rappel three times (depending on your rope lenght) and walk towards the final two rappels. The last rappel brings you to the base of the south face routes where you can pick up your pack and head down.
Maps and GuidebooksMap 1:25 000:
- SAC Map: 1230 Guttannen
Map 1:50 000:
- SAC Map: 255 Sustenpas
- Topoguide Band 1, Nicole Luzar & Volker Roth, ISBN 3-00-016204-6
- Schweiz Plaisir West, Filidor, ISBN 3-906087-19-0
To order SAC Maps: www.toposhop.ch
To order the Topoguide: www.topoguide.de
To order Schweiz Plaisir West: www.filidor.ch
External LinksUseful links:
WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF - Avalance Bulletin
Weather Forecast - Detailed weather forecast by Meteoschweiz
Railroad information - Railroad schedule
Bus information - Postbus schedule
Guttannen - Tourist Office Guttannen
Alpenpasses - Information on the current road conditions on the Grimselpas road
Haslital - Tourist Office Haslital (Region of Meiringen)