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Ojstrica
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Ojstrica 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Kamnik Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.36300°N / 14.63520°E

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7709 ft / 2350 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jul 5, 2004 / May 14, 2008

Object ID: 152784

Hits: 4440 

Page Score: 90.08% - 23 Votes 

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In Slovenian language č, š and ž are pronounced like ch, sh, and zh.

Overview

 
From Križevnik

The central part of Kamnik Alps ends on its eastern side with a beautiful high mountain, one of the most impressive in the whole group. Also its name - Ojstrica = Sharp Peak - suggests this. The most impressive side of Ojstrica is its north wall (Logarska dolina is more tha 1500m below the summit). It is more than 500m high and offers many beautiful climbing routes. Also high is Ojstrica's east face. From the summit and a long SE ridge a 700m high, steep rocky face is falling down to Robanov kot valley. Quite steep are also the south slope, rising above the broad, green meadow of Korošica, 1800m, and the south-west slope, over which the easyest ascent goes. The mountain has three distinctive ridges - the west ridge towards Škarje notch, 2141m and further to Planjava summit, 2394m is a part of the main Kamnik Alps ridge. From the summit towards the north-east a sharp ridge goes down to Škrbina notch, 1800m, which divides Ojstrica from the neighbouring summit of Krofička, 2083m. Finally the south-east ridge goes down from the summit of Ojstrica to the head of Mala Ojstrica (Small Ojstrica), 2017m and further down to the plateau of Dleskovška planota. In the short summit ridge there are two peaks, higher is the western one.

Being so attractive the summits keeps a detailed history of ascents. In 1823 E. Joanelli reached the summit, doing his job as geomether.

Summit Views

Because of its position Ojstrica offers a great panorama. Towards the south the green meadow of Korošica, beyond it the broad carst plateau of Dleskovška planota and further the hilly rest of Slovenia. Towards east the neighbouring mountains of Kamnik Alps, deep down the green valley of Robanov kot, in the distance forehills. On north most impressive is the view deep down into green Logarska dolina (valley). Beyond hilly landscape one can see the Gurktal Alps and groups east of them. And towards west all the big summits of Kamnik Alps can be seen, in distance Julian Alps and in a clear day one can see as far as to Grossglockner.

The Diversity of Nature Around Ojstrica

Ojstrica stands in the middle of high alpine world, which is very diverse. On north and east we have two of the most beautiful valleys of Kamnik Alps: Logarska dolina (often called also the Gavarnie of Kamnik Alps) and Robanov kot. Broad alpine meadows, high vertical walls, unspoiled nature, waterfalls in Logarska dolina, these are only a few of highlights. On south there is a high carst plateau of Dleskovska planota. Covered with pine bushes, a few alpine meadows, some rocky summits peeking out. The rocky part of main Kamnik Alps ridge is also impressive - high walls above Logarska dolina, some of them with a healthy, solid rock, appropriate also for hard climbs. And a special pearl is a broad flat meadow of Korošica.

Getting There

 
hunkan - Robanov kot

For a broader overview see the Kamnik Alps GROUP page!

1. From the south-west. The trailhead is on the road into Kamniška Bistrica (valley), 1km before the hut and the end parking place, 571m, from where we reach Korošica hut through the valley of Kamniška Bela and Presedljaj (saddle, 1613m). From the road to hut 4,5h.

2. From the east and south-east. By car we can reach Dleskovška planota (plateau). In Podvolovljek valley we take a decent macadam road, which brings us to Planina Ravne and the altitude of 1500m. From the end parking place Korosica hut (or Sedelce (saddle) for the SE ridge ascent) can be reached in 2h 30min (2h 15min). The other starting point can be the end of road below Planina Podvežak, 1400m, some 500m before reaching a hunters hut.

3. From the north-east. We can drive into the beautiful Robanov kot (valley) only to the farm of Roban. From there to Korošica hut you have then 4h (to Sedelce 3h 45min).

4. From the north. The trailhead is at 835m in the beautiful Logarska dolina (valley) by the mountain hut.

Routes Overview



Marked hiking routes & ferrattas


The numbers below refer to the map above.

1. From Korošica hut - south slope. Not difficult, just on few places steep walk-up. 1h 30min. In good conditions it is also appropriate for skiing.

2. South-east ridge. Marked route starts on Sedelce (saddle), 1900m. This can be reached from Korošica (15min), or from any of the paths which lead to Korošica from east and south-east (from Robanov kot valley or from Dleskovska planota plateau). Ridge is marked, on the upper part scramble, also protected on some places - medium hard. 1h 15min from the saddle.

3. From Škarje notch. If we come from the west, from the neighbouring Planjava (2394m), we can follow the main ridge of Kamnik Alps, reach Škarje notch, 2141m and ascend from there the summit. From Škarje 1h.

4. From the north, over Škarje notch. Reaching from Logarska dolina, 800m to Koča pod Ojstrico (hut, 1208m), we have two options to continue. The west detour of Ojstrica north wall goes over Škarje notch. Medium difficulty, on some places steep and also protected. A long ascent, from Logarska dolina (valley) 4:30h, from the hut 3:30h.

5. From the north, Kopinškova pot (Kopinšek Route). From Logarska dolina, 800m to Ko&3269;a pod Ojstrico (hut, 1208m), then east of the north wall to Škrbina (notch), 1800m, into the east face and over it on the NE ridge, across the upper part of north face to the NW ridge and to the top. Very nice ferratta (above the Skrbina notch), medium hard and exposed. A long ascent, from Logarska dolina (valley) 4h, from the hut 3h.

Climbing Routes in the North Wall
  • Herletova smer, V+/ III - IV, 450m, 11.-12. August, 1941.
  • Ogrin-Omerza, V-/IV, 450m,
  • Leva smer (The left route), IV+/III-IV, 400m,
  • Sanje Delfina (The dreams of a dolphin), VII, 400m,
  • Črna zavesa (The black curtain), VII+/V, 450m,
  • Izziv (The challenge), VIII/A0, 450m,
  • Zmaj (The dragon),V.

    Red Tape

    There are no limitations. The mountain is in the middle of a parc area. For the road into Logarska dolina you must pay toll.

    When To Climb

    Summer and autumn (best months are usually July - October).
    Spring for tour skiing (Usually February - May).

    Camping

    There are several good mountain huts around Ojstrica:

  • Kocbekov dom na Korošici, 1808m, (03) 4924850, (050)615625 and (031)749811, Milan Kozelj.
  • Dom v Logarski dolini, 837m, 03 / 5847006, (031) 269 785,
  • Planinska koča pod Ojstrico (na Klemenči jami), 1208m, (041) 570-231 and (041)417-951,
  • Kamniška koča na Kamniškem sedlu, 1864m, 01 / 8391345, (050) 611367,
  • Dom v Kamniski Bistrici, 600m, (01) 8325544,

    Mountain Conditions

    Weather: see the official page for Slovenia here.
    Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Celje station.

    Images

    [ View Gallery - 76 More Images ]



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