Both Ancohuma and Illampu are located in the northern Cordillera Real, they dominate the east coast of Lake Titicaca (especially from Isla del Sol)

Ancohuma was first climbed by two Germans mountaineers - Adolph Schulze and Rudolf Dienst on June 11th 1919 from Cocoyo via Laguna Negra. The two climbers needed 6 days to reach the summit.

Titicaca]

Ancohuma from the road to Sorata

Illampu (left) and Ancohuma

Illampu and Ancohuma

Illampu and Ancohuma from Lake Titicaca

Getting There

Starting point to climb Ancohuma is Sorata. The cheapest way from La Paz to Sorata is by bus (In 2005 the buses depart from La Paz at the cemetery district several times daily).
There are several hostels and hotels in Sorata. Organize further transport (4x4 and mules) at the trekking agencies located near "Plaza General Enrique Penaranda" - Soratas main square.

Sorata

There are two Normal Routes for Ancohuma:

Travel by 4x4 to Cocoyo and continue via Laguna Negra (Laguna Jacha Leche Khota)
via Laguna Glaciar (Laguna Glaciar is also a nice trekking trip 2/3 days)

Red Tape

no restrictions (Jul 2005)

When To Climb

June to August are usually the best months to climb (this period is the Bolivian winter, which has quite stable weather with no rain/snowfall). The later you climb (August ...) expect cold wind and penitents.

Laguna Chillata

Walking up to Laguna Glaciar

Laguna Glaciar (and Pico Schulze)

en route to the high camp

Ancohuma from the high camp

Ancohuma Northwest Ridge

sunset (descending to Laguna Glaciar)

Guide Books, Maps etc

Maps: DAV Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu) 1:50.000
(there is also an IGM map available)

Guidebooks:

Bolivia - A Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain (ISBN: 0-89886-495-X)
The Andes of Bolivia by Alain Mesili (ISBN: 99905-79-08-3) - www.andes-mesili.com
Boliva - lonely planet by Andrew Dean Nystrom et al. (ISBN: 1-74104-018-3)

Miscellaneous Info

It is nearly impossible to buy white gas for the stoves in La Paz. Butane/Propane canisters are available at trekking agencies in La Paz.
Basic food is available at the market in Sorata. Bring the food for the high camps from La Paz.
Several cartographers (also the Times World Atlas) have claimed that Ancohuma is the highest mountain in Bolivia; and have stated the height up to more than 7000m, which would be the highest and only mountain over 7000m outside the Himalayas. The actual edition of the DAV Map (Cordillera Real - Nord, Illampu) states Ancohuma's altitude 6427m.

Images



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