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Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Peru, South America

Object Title: Copa

Activities: Mountaineering

Elevation: 20302 ft / 6188 m


Page By: CClaude

Created/Edited: Feb 26, 2006 / Feb 26, 2006

Object ID: 176295

Hits: 16308 

Page Score: 75.8%  - 14 Votes 

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If you are looking for a easy peak that is a good introduction to high altitude Copa may be it with a fairly easy standard route (PD) at 6188m. If you are looking for a ski mountaineering peak, this could be it. Whatever you are looking for, don't underestimate the crevasse risk, especially with continued global warming.

Getting There

Descent from Copa at around 6000m
Slope on the upper section of Copa

Take a collectivo from Hueraz (which can be found at the bridge on the north side of town) to the town of Marcara. From here take a taxi to either Chancos or to Vicos. (Its been said there is a fairly new road to the left 1 km beyond Chancos, which at the end has a trail to Leguna Lejiacocha. This trail is preferred since he other alternative is to take a trail just beyond Vicos which will wonder through the farmland before meeting up with the previous trail. I suggest the first alternative since even with a map, the second option was very confusing. From Vicos you will gain about 5000ft of altitude and hike approximately 10miles, reaching a hut at Leguna Lejiacocha which makes for a plush campsite at 4300m (the summit can be reached from here in a long day, otherwise a camp can be placed on the glacier plateau) . From here, cross the dam taking a trail to the couloir that is obvious from the dam roping up at the base of the couloir where the glacier starts.

From here find the path of least resistance through the couloir. In the late '90's this was towards the left side. Gaining the plateau at 5100m skirt the worst of the crevasses gaining good campsites if you would like to camp here before proceeding to the summit. Depending on how the crevasses are, from here a large crevasse can be skirted on the right (late 90's beta nd it will change). From here follow the right side of the broad gentle slope, until it becomes very steep. continue up left up the steep slope,

Copa Summit
Slope on the upper section of Copa

Skirt around a few crevasses, and the ridge will narrow forcing you to turn left as you gain a short, moderate slope leading to the final summit ridge

Crevasses on Copa
Crevasses on the upper scetion of Copa


Brad Johnson "Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru" has very accurate, what appears to be up to date information. The topo in "The Andes; A Guide for Climbers" by John Biggar is accurate enough so you won't get lost (which is what I had used in the '90's) but the approach information in B. Johnson's book appears to be more up to date.