The Gross Bielenhorn (and it's little brother the Chli Bielenhorn) are wonderfull granite peaks near the Galenstock. The climbing is varied with cracks, dihedrals and slabs.

This mountain offers excellent rock climbing on wonderfull granite in UIAA IV-V. It is often climbed on the E and SE ridges. The easiest route (and descent) is rated UIAA II-III so there is no way to walk to the top. Take a rockclimbing rack supplemented with some cams and nuts. Good rock climbing skills, routefinding skills and experience with nuts and friends are required for all routes on the mountain.

Coordinates:
46.60476 - 8.4248

Getting There

You can get to the base of the mountain from the Furkapass (2h from parking Galenbödmen)). The biggest town in the vicinity is Andermatt. The Furkapass is on the road form Andermatt to Oberwald in central Switzerland.

Approach is possible from the Albert-Heim hütte (1h from Tiefenbach town on the Furkapass) or from the Sidelenhütte (1h from Hotel Belvedere on the Furkapass).

Red Tape

None at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from november till may.

When To Climb

Best time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.

Routes

E-Grat
III-IV, 3-4h.
First ascent: J. Marmet & G. Styger 1949.

SE-Grat
IV+, A0 or V, 4h.
First ascent: A. & O. Amstand & G. Masetto 1935.

S-Grat
III-IV, few ropelenghts V, 5-6h.
First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & A. Schelbert, 1968.

SW-Wall Variante I
VI-, A1/VI, 5-6h.
First ascent: N. Baumann & Müller, 1964.

SW-Wall Variante II
VI-A2, 3-6h.
First ascent: F. Anderrüthi & M. Niedermann, 1956.
A very fine, difficult (VI-A2) rock climb of about 300m drop (14 pitches) starting in a superficial dihedral 20m to the left of a wide dihedral/channel.

W-Pillar
IV-V+, A2, 4-5h.
First ascent: Nedela, Niedermann & Tischhauser, 1972.

SW-Wall of the NW-Summitridge
V-V+, A1, 4-5h.
First ascent: P. Casanella & Zembrowski, 1974.

Camping & Sleeping

Realp Camping (1510m):
Open in from june till september.

Sidelenhütte (2708m):
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.

Bivouacing is possible some 300m below the Sidelenhut. The hut garden doesn't mind (for now at least). In the summer there are often more tents at this spot (thanks to Mr_White for the tip).

Albert-Heim hütte (2542m)
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1,5h. Winterroom is available.

Books & Maps

Maps:
Urseren Blatt 1231

Guidebooks:
Schweiz Plaisir West, J. von Känel, ISBN 3906087069
Clubführer Urner Alpen 2, T. Fullin & A. Bahnhölzer, ISBN 3859022229

Images



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