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Orsaro
Mountain/Rock

Orsaro

 
Orsaro

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Parma, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.41358°N / 9.99226°E

Object Title: Orsaro

County: Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 6007 ft / 1831 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Mar 27, 2014 / Mar 29, 2014

Object ID: 891524

Hits: 466 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Appennino Tosco-Emiliano e Tosco-Romagnolo > Appennino Parmense > Orsaro


Orsaro m. 1831



Appennino Parmense Orientale is a chain located in the Eastern part of Parma Province administrative boundaries, lined up between Passo del Cirone in the North-Western end and Passo del Lagastrello in the South-Eastern end.
Monte Orsaro is the symbolic peak of the whole Appennino Parmense, even if not the highest, in reason of its shape and location. The mountain lies between Monte Fosco to the North, from which it’s separated by a saddle named Foce del Fosco m. 1600, and Monte Braiola to the South, from which it’s separated by another narrow saddle named Bocchetta dell’Orsaro m. 1722. Its Normal Route starting from the Rifugio Lagdei and running on the North-North-East side, gently sloping towards the Foce del Fosco, is a popular hiking, mountaineering and ski-mountaineering destination, both in winter time and in the other seasons of the year. The other sides of the peak, particularly the West side, facing towards Tuscany, are higher and steeper and climbed along interesting routes. The wide summit view over Alpi Apuane and Tirrenian Sea with Gulf of La Spezia, which appears from the summit, is best know, as the one towards the other peaks of the area, located South-East to Monte Orsaro.


Orsaro-Braiola-Marmagna Subgroup seen from SW (Tuscan side)
Orsaro-Braiola-Marmagna seen from South-West (Tuscany)

Getting There

Road Approach

Parma is the nearest town to the area; its small airport provides some domestic flies and only a few international ones. A good choice of international flies is provided by Milan and Bologna International Airports, both situated at a reasonable distance (Milan 110 km., Bologna 90 km.).
Parma is linked to other Italian and European towns by A1 and A15 motorways, so logistic is not a problem.

Approach from A15 (Autocisa Motorway) – If you’re driving on A15 towards North exit Pontremoli and follow the road to Passo del Cirone and Bosco di Corniglio. From here follow the road towards the locality named Cancelli. If you’re driving on A15 towards South it’s better to exit Borgo Val di Taro and follow the road to Passo del Silara and Bosco di Corniglio.

Approach inside the beech-wood
Approach inside the beech-wood

Rime ice near the summit
Rime ice near the summit



Approach from Parma

Follow the SP 665 (Massese) towards Langhirano and Corniglio; at the Pastorello roundabout turn to right, reaching Beduzzo, Marra, Bosco di Corniglio, the locality named Cancelli and finally Lagdei (wide parking).


Walking Approach to Capanna Schiaffino

From Lagdei m. 1250 follow the path n. 727, starting just near the hut and rising inside the beautiful beech-wood; after the fork with the path to Rifugio Mariotti, starting on the left at about 1400 m., the track is getting to Ponte Rotto, so named in reason of a broken stones-bridge. Carry on always on the main path, without follow the tracks starting from the main one both on the left side and on the right, reaching the wild basin lying at the footh of Monte Marmagna, Monte Braiola and Monte Orsaro triad. Here is situated the small and secluded Capanna Schiaffino m. 1610, an emergency stone-shelter, always open.

Routes overview

Orsaro South side seen from Braiola
Orsaro South side seen from Monte Braiola


Main routes to the summit

***North-North-East side Normal Route from Lagdei

Difficulty: Alpine F in winter conditions, otherwise E
Altitude Gain: 581 m.
Starting Point: Lagdei Hut m. 1250

From Lagdei m. 1250 follow the path n. 725, starting on the right of the wooden bridge. After 5 minutes by walk, take the path n. 725/A (signposts Monte Orsaro) entering the beech-wood.
At the next fork at about 1370 meters of quote (with the path n. 723 running from Ponterotto to Bosco) turn to left and after some meters, then turn soon to right keeping the path 725/A (signposts Monte Orsaro), rising with wide hairpins in the beech-wood and getting to another fork. Keep the left, reaching the saddle named Foce del Fosco m. 1600. Head to left, then to right, exiting the beech-wood and rising along an open slope, sometimes icy, leading to a characteristic basin surrounded by some boulders. Above the basin climb the last slope, leading to the summit Madonna.

Snow basin along the Normal Route
Snow basin along the Normal Route
Orsaro seen from the Orsaro saddle
Bocchetta Orsaro (Orsaro Saddle) and Orsaro
Wind storm over the summit
Wind storm over the summit


***South Ridge (Direttissima)

Difficulty: Alpine F+ in winter conditions, otherwise EE
Altitude Gain: 581 m.
Starting point: Lagdei Hut m. 1250

From Lagdei m. 1250 follow the path n. 727, starting just near the hut, crossing soon a wooden bridge and rising inside the beautiful beech-wood; after the fork with the path to Rifugio Mariotti, starting on the left at about 1400 m., the trail is getting to Ponte Rotto, so named in reason of a broken stones-bridge. Carry on always on the main path, without follow the trails forking from the main one both on the left side and on the right, reaching the wild basin lying at the footh of Monte Marmagna, Monte Braiola and Monte Orsaro triad. Here is situated the small and secluded Capanna Schiaffino. From the shelter head to North, traversing a steep slope and reaching the narrow saddle named Bocchetta dell’Orsaro m. 1722, located between Monte Orsaro and Monte Braiola on the boundary between Emilia on the right and Tuscany on the left.
From the saddle you can climb directly the first rocks of the South ridge, starting just above the saddle, or alternatively descent a few meters on the Tuscany side (left) and skirt the first part of the South ridge traversing on steep slopes, then up on the slope to join the middle section of South Ridge, just above the rocks. Follow the S ridge to the summit.

Orsaro South side seen from Braiola
Orsaro South side seen from Monte Braiola


***West Face

Difficulty: Alpine PD+, 40°- 45°
Altitude Gain: 581 m., longer develop
Climbing length: 250 meters from the bottom of the face
Starting point: Lagdei m. 1250
Note: only in winter

From Lagdei m. 1250 follow the path n. 727, starting just near the hut, crossing soon a wooden bridge and rising inside the beautiful beech-wood; after the fork with the path to Rifugio Mariotti, starting on the left at about 1400 m., the trail is getting to Ponte Rotto, so named in reason of a broken stones-bridge. Carry on always on the main path, without follow the trails forking from the main one both on the left side and on the right, reaching the wild basin lying at the footh of Monte Marmagna, Monte Braiola and Monte Orsaro triad. Here is situated the small and secluded Capanna Schiaffino. From the shelter head to North, traversing a steep slope and reaching the narrow saddle named Bocchetta dell’Orsaro m. 1722, located between Monte Orsaro and Monte Braiola on the boundary between Emilia on the right and Tuscany on the left. From the saddle descent to the left side (Tuscany), getting the base of the West Face. Skirt the face, reaching a narrow saddle in the lowest point of the SW ridge. From here traverse left about 100 meters to gain the starting point of the route. Climb the snowy or icy slope, becoming more and more steep, near the SW ridge, reaching the summit ridge and the top.

Orsaro summit Madonna
Orsaro summit signal
Last steps before the top
Last steps before the top



Descent: along the easy and panoramic NNE to Sella del Fosco and Lagdei

Huts and Bivouacs

Rifugio Lagdei m. 1250
Always open, 25 beds (60 km. from Parma); wide parking

- Capanna Roberto Schiaffino m. 1610 emergency shelter – 1 hour from Lagdei without snow, from 1,10 to 1,45 hours in winter, depending by the snow conditions

The Schiaffino shelter almost buried by the snow
Capanna Schiaffino

Rime ice near the summit
NNE slopes

Red Tape

Since 1995 Monte Orsaro and all the area surrounding the peak are situated under the regulation of a Natural Regional park having the evocative name of Parco dei Cento Laghi (One Hundred Lakes Park), in reason of quite a lot of small lakes existing inside the park’s boundaries.
In late years this area was included inside a National Park, named Parco Nazionale Appennino Tosco Emiliano (Tosco-Emiliano National Park); wood fires are prohibited as well as free camping and other harmful activity.
Walking, mountaineering and climbing are allowed. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.
Please respect the following rules inside Parco Nazionale dell'Appennino Tosco-Emiliano:

When to Hike and Climb

It’s possible to hike and climb all around the year on Monte Orsaro; winter ascents require the essential gear, as rope, crampons, an ice-axe, technical garments.

Climate

Subcontinental, with cold and snowing winters and pleasant summers, in reason of the mitigating influence of the Tyrrenian Sea and the action of the winds.

Meteo

METEO LAGDEI

METEO ARPA EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Guidebooks and Maps

 
Orsaro-Braiola-Marmagna map
 


Guidebooks

 
Arrampica Parma Guidebook
Arrampicaparma Guidebook: rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering in Appennino Parmense
 
Appennino Tosco Emiliano Guidebook
 



"Arrampicaparma - climbing, bouldering & mountaineering" by Silvia Mazzani and Alberto Rampini - Pareti e Montagne Edizioni, II ed. 2011

"Arrampicaparma - montagna, falesie, bouldering" by Alberto Rampini and Silvia Mazzani - Pareti e Montagne Edizioni, 2003

“Appennino Ligure e Tosco-Emiliano” by M. Salvo and D. Canossini - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI




Maps

“Le valli del Cedra e del Parma (The Cedra and Parma Valleys)” Map 1:25.000 (CAI-Regione Emilia-Romagna)

“Alto Appennino Parmense Est” Map 1:50.000 (CAI-Regione Emilia-Romagna)

External Links

CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO SEZ. DI PARMA

PARCO NAZIONALE APPENNINO TOSCO EMILIANO

Images