Parseier Spitze is the queen of the Lechtal Alps, the highest mountain of the whole Northern Kalk Alps and the single 3000 meters peak of this chain. This lias limestone mountain is high eroded but has still a fine look. Parseier Spitze is situated high over Landeck, between the Stanzertal in the south (valley of Sankt Anton), Parseiertal in the north and Patroltal in the east. A little glacier covers the east face, the Grinner Ferner.
On the normal route, you have to climb between grade one and two. The climb is realy funny but the last 200m height are very very airy, you should be able to climb 1 hour without mistakes.
Start points :
1) Grins near Landeck (south side)
2) Madau in Lechtal (coming from thr north)
To Grins :
By Plane : airport Innsbruck
By train : station Landeck
By car : Landeck is on the road Innsbruck - Bregenz. At Landeck, follow direction Arlberg. After a few kms, turn to the right to Grins. Go to"Schwimmbad. At the end of this road you can park.
To Madau :
By plane : airport Innsbruck or München.
By car :
- From the east, you reach the Lechtal over Fernpass, Reutte from Innsbrück, over Füssen and Reutte over München.
- From the west, over Hochtannbergpass from Bregenerwald, over Flexenstrasse and Lech from Arlberg. At the village Bach go up in the south the valley of Madau. It is not allowed to drive to Madau with a privat car. But there is a possibility of hiring a taxi bus in Bach (probably Taxi Bach: Wolf Klaus 05634/6460)
From Grins, Parseierspitze is reached over Augsburger Hut.
From Madau, Parseierspitze is reached over Memminger Hut.
To Augsburger Hut : from Grins 4 hours.
Other possibilities :
- from Strengen over Dawinscharte and Augsburger Höhenweg
- from Ansbacher Hut over Augsburger Höhenweg
- from Württemberger Hut (Spiehler Weg)
To Memminger Hut
- from Madau through Parseiertal. not allowed to drive to Madau with a privat car. But there is a possibility of hiring a taxi bus in Bach (probably Taxi Bach: Wolf Klaus 05634/6460)
- from Madau over Röttal 5 hours
No red tape
1) Normal route :SE face from Augsburger Hut. II-
2) E ridge over Patrolscharte II+
3) S ridge III - IV
4) W face III
5) N ridge IV
6) White tower and summit tower over N ridge V
7) NE face IV
Huts and Camping
- Augsburger Hut 2300 m.
Open from july to end september.
70 Lager Winterraum 10 Places (open)
Tel 05442/63604 Valley: (+FAX) 05442/66345
To Augsburger Biwak 2.5 h
To Memminger Hut 3,5 h
Owner: DAV S. Augsburg. D-86152 Augsburg, Peutingerstr. 24 Tel. D-0821/516780 [email protected]
- Memminger Hut 2242 m.
Open end june to end september.
4 Beds 110 Lager Winterraum 18 Places (offen)
Tel.-Valley: 05634/6208 (FAX: 20036) [email protected]
To Ansbacher Hut 5 h
To Württemberger Haus 3 h
To Augsburger 3,5 h
To Holzgau 4 h
To Landeck 4 h
Owner : DAV S. Memmingen. D-87700 Memmingen, Allgäuer Str. 24 [email protected]
When To Climb
Best climbing mounths range from juni to september. Crampons are recommended in early summer and in autumn.
Date: July 02, 2002 06:17 AM
We tried to climb the "Parseierspitze" in late June '02, via the "Gatschkopf".
Although the last two weeks were very hot and sunny, there was still a big and steep snow-field between the Patrolscharte and the "glacier/ferner". We thought it too risky to cross the snowfield without crampons.
So if you want to climb the "Parseierspitze" in early summer you better carry the "big boots" and crampons.
Of course the same could occur in late summer/early fall, when there happens to fall fresh snow!
Lechtaler Alpen Bergverlag Rudolf Rother München - Heinz Groth
- First ascent : 1869 Specht/Siess SE face
- Glacier and E ridge: 1875 Hofmann/Klotz
- W face : 1895 Dinkelmann/Staggl/Waldner
- Weather Landeck