OverviewPiz da la Margna stands on the border between the Bernina range and the peaks of the Bregaglia. Even though the regular route offers only some modest scrambling and snow walking, because of its isolated position, the great views from its summit in all directions are well worth the journey. It is easily climbed in a day from the bus stop or from the parking lot.
First climbed in 1857 by Caviezel with Krättli, Robbi and Zuan, it is easily accessed from either Maloja Pass or from Sils Maria.
Getting TherePublic Transportation
One can take a train to St. Moritz, then go by bus to either Sils Maria or Maloja Pass. From Italy, one would take a bus to Maloja Pass.
There are two main highways leading to St. Moritz and on to Maloja Pass: From the north and west via Chur and the Julier Pass, from the east via Innsbruck (or Bozen) - Landeck - Zernez and from the south from Chiavenna over Maloja Pass. There are parking opportunities on Maloja Pass and at Sils Maria.
This is the regular route that aside from some snow into late summer, offers only scrambling. Total elevation gain is about 4400 feet. Estimated time to summit is 4 to 5 hours.
One starts either from Maloja Pass or Sils Maria. From Maloja Pass, follow the trail along the south shore of the lake, heading east towards Alp Plaun. The trail branch to the right (sign) is followed to Alp Ca d'Starnam. From Sils Maria, follow the road up Val Fex, leaving it at Hotel Waldhaus and continuing on the trail into Val Fedoz, crossing the creek and reaching Alp Ca d'Starnam.
Continue up the trail to a small glacial basin that lies between the NE and South ridges. Ascend up the steep flank, often snow covered, directly to an easily seen grass shoulder (2738 M) on the NE ridge. Continue up the ridge to the summit. The ridge is covered with talus, but may also have snow. Exposed in a few places, so some may feel more comfortable on a rope.
The descent route is the same as the ascent route.
Ice axe is handy; a rope may be desired. Crampons may be needed in early season.
The only route that offers any technical challenges is the SE ridge, from the Fuorcla da la Margna.
When To ClimbBest time: middle summer to late fall, depending on snow conditions.
AccommodationsCamping, hotels, condos and pensions abound in the whole valley from St. Moritz to Maloja Pass. This is an extremely popular resort area, so reservations are advised. It's also expensive (so it seemed to me). There is no mountain hut from which to base this climb.
Mountain ConditionsFor latest weather, check Swiss Weather and Conditions and/or
Check the St Moritz website for conditions.
Live webcam above St Moritz is also a good information source.