OverviewPiz Tschierva is an imposing and harmonious mountain, dominating the eastern side of the Val Roseg, in the Bernina Group, canton Grisons, Switzerland. Piz Tschierva is located close-by the Piz Morteratsch 3751 m, the Tschierva-Hut 2583 m. and the Boval Hut 2495 m., West to the crest dividing Val Morteratsch and Val Roseg. It's separated from this main crest by Fuorcla Tschierva and shows three sides and as many ridges. To the North you find the glacier "Vadret da Misaun" and to the South the glacier "Vadrettin da Tschierva". Piz Tschierva is a popular mountain in summer as well as in spring with ski and a very panoramic summit, offering wide views over the main peaks of Bernina Group, as Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina main summit and Piz Roseg. The name Tschierva means deer-female, the deer-female mountain.
Getting TherePiz Tschierva can be climbed both from Boval Hut and Tschierva Hut. The starting pont to reach the Boval Hut is Morteratsch, a little settlement at 1896 m. of altitude located along the Retic Railway. The starting point to reach the Tschierva Hut is the village of Pontresina. Both Morteratsch and Pontresina are located on the road running from S. Moritz to the Bernina Pass.
By public transport:
SBB & RHB-railway from St.Moritz to the railway station Pontresina
Online train&bus schedule (public transport Switzerland): SBB schedule
By car from Switzerland
Across the Julierpass 2284m (Pass dal Güglia) or the Berninapass 2307m (Passo del Bernina) to Pontresina and Morteratsch
By car from Italy
From Milano reach Lecco, then follow the road 36 along Lago di Como to Colico; here turn to right taking the Valtellina road to Sondrio and Tirano. Here leave the Valtellina road and turn to right, entering in Switzwerland, reach Poschiavo, Bernina Pass and Morteratsch. An alternative access is via Chiavenna, Maloia Pass, Silvaplana, St. Moritz, Pontresina and Morteratsch.
Online Route scheduler: route scheduler in english and TCS.ch
Huts* Chamanna da Boval (Boval-Hütte) 2495 m - CAS Bernina
Open: 15 of March - 15 of May and 15 of june - 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 12 in the winter-shelter
Getting There: 2 hours by walking on a path running on the left orographical side of Morteratsch Glacier
* Chamanna da Tschierva (Tschierva Hütte) 2573 m - CAS Bernina
Open: end of March - 15 of May and 15 of June - 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 30 in the winter shelter
Getting There: from Pontresina via the Val Roseg - 3,30 hours on path
Red TapeNo permits required. A fee is due in the Morteratsch parking. Cars are banned in Val Roseg.
Routes overviewFrom the Boval Hut:
- East Ridge
Difficulty: F+ (Alpine scale)
Difference in level: 1050 m from Boval Hut
It's the Normal route and the route of the first summiters (Johann Coaz and co. summer 1850), usually climbed to reach the summit. A pleasant climb, a lot of fun on the rocks and the easy summit ridge! The view from the top is wonderful over some major peaks of Bernina group, as Piz Morteratsch and Piz Roseg.
Follow the path rising in the direction of the Corn Boval, reaching the base of the Corn Boval. At about 2800 m. of altitude head towards SW, in the snowy depression occupied by the remains of Vadret Boval Dadains, then follow the glacier, heading to the rocky wall and getting the bottom at about 3000 m. of altitude. Start to climb it on rocky steps, easier at the beginning, then steeper (II grade UIAA scale). Traverse left on a ledge, then reach the Fuorcla Boval (2.30 h from the shelter). Descend on Vadrettin Tschierva and traverse right in the direction of Piz Tschierva. At the end of the glacier, a steep slope of rocks and scree leads to the Fuorcla da Tschierva. The easy East ridge leads to the summit (3,15 hours from the shelter).
See also the page Piz Tschierva Crossing for the description of the route rising from Boval Hut and coming down to Tschierva Hut
The East Ridge can be easily climbed also starting from the Tschierva Hut:
- East Ridge
Difficulty: F (Alpine scale)
Difference in level: 960 m from Tschierva Hut
From the shelter reach the Terrassa 3120 m., then head to East to the Vadrettin da Tschierva and follow the glacier toward East to reach the Fuorcla da Tschierva, the wide saddle between Piz Tschierva and Crasta da Boval, then follow the East Ridge as for the previous route.
Other easy routes from the Tschierva Hut are:
- South East side - F (Alpine scale) From the Tschierva Hut reach the Terrassa 3120 m. as for the previous route and across the SE snow-fields and easy rocks reach the summit
- South Spur - F (Alpine scale) From the Tschierva Hut reach the bottom edge of the Terrassa, then climb directly the South Spur
- South West side - F (Alpine scale)
There are two more demanding routes starting from the Hotel Roseg via the Fuorcla Misaun, nowadays rarely climbed (WNW ridge and North Wall).
Ski tour route:
Tschierva Hut - Vadrettin da Tschierva - East ridge - Piz Tschierva
Difficulty: WS (PD) ¦ Route: 753 ¦ 960 metres in altitude
When to climbFor the summer ascents the best period goes from July to the end of September.
Ski-mountaineering: from March to May
* "Bernina" N. Canetta and G. Miotti - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI
* "Bündner Alpen 5" Pierino Giuliani
Guidebook winter / ski tour:
*"Skitouren Graubünden" Vital Eggenberger
Map: * "Bernina" Swisstopo 1277 - 1:25000
Online map for Switzerland:
Map Search - Online Maps
Weather, climate and snow conditions in SwitzerlandFederal Office of Meteorology and Climatology
Swiss Federal Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research Davos: www.slf.ch
Switzerland Tourism: www.myswitzerland.com
Gisons Tourism: www.graubünden.ch
Good and favorable accommodations: www.rooms.ch
In Memory of Cyrill RüeggerA note from the SP staff
Cyrill Rüegger, the member we all used to know as Cyrill and Digitalis, died on June 13th 2009 in an avalanche on the summit ridge of Piz Palü together with his wife Tanja and a common friend. They were swept down by the avalanche into a couloir underneath the east summit and died instantly. Their bodies were retrieved from the Palü Glacier by helicopter a day after the accident.
Cyrill joined SP in March 2006 and soon was one of the most prolific contributors on the site with almost 70 mountain and 5 range pages to his profile. He was an accomplished climber, bagging almost 1000 summits in not quite seven years. Among them are 35 4000ers and 272 3000ers, almost all of them in his home country Switzerland.
While contributing a lot on SP, Cyrill's real internet home was www.hikr.org where he contributed 585 mountain profiles and reports in his native language German. Cyrill also posted on www.bergsteigen.at and other climbing sites, often under his real name but also under the pseudonym Digitalis. He was a botanist by profession and also contributed his knowledge about medical plants to different websites. Cyrill will be greatly missed by all.
This page will be kept in honour of Cyrill, one of SP's most prolific members and most active mountaineers.
Rest in peace, brother!
The picture above was taken on the summit of Matterhorn on July 28th 2007.