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Piz Glüschaint
Mountain/Rock

Piz Glüschaint

 
Piz Glüschaint

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Engadin, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Piz Glüschaint

Elevation: 11788 ft / 3593 m

 

Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Oct 20, 2002 / Dec 6, 2006

Object ID: 151293

Hits: 5701 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.

The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.

Overview

The Piz Glüschaint is one of the somewhat unknown peaks at the closure of the Val Roseg. The (romanic) name "Glüschaint" comes from "glühen" (to glow) and "scheinen" (to shine). It's the highest paek at the so called Corvatsch-Sella-group. This mountain group limits the left (west) border of the Roseg-basin and Roseg valley.

The Piz Glüschaint rises above the Vadret da Roseg (roseg glacier), which is one of the most disrupted glaciers of the alps. The mountain is built by three main ridges (SW, E, N). Between this ridges three faces are located : the NE-flank, the W-flank and the S-face.

West of the Piz Glüschaint (between Piz Glüschaint and La Muongia, 3415 m) the Fuorcla dal Glüschaint (3369 m) can be found. East of the Piz Glüschaint an insignificant saddel without an name connects the Piz Glüschaint with the group of the Sellaspitzen/La Sella (3584 m).

All routes of the Piz Glüschaint need caution because of the many, tremendous, dangerous crevasses of the Vadret da Roseg (things like "seeking for holes" or "minefield" ...). The common route is the NE-flank (rated ZS). There is no real easy route to the summit. Ongoing decline of the glacier may prevent some of the routes in future.

Getting There

The common place to start an attempt to Piz Glüschaint is the Chamanna Coaz (SAC, 2610 m). The Chamanna Coaz can be reached from the Hotel Roseg at the Val Roseg or from the Fuorcula Surlej.

To go to the Hotel Roseg start at Pontresina (near the railway station) using a good road. This road is closed for cars, but it's possible to take a coach, starting at the railway station of Pontresina (expensive !). By feet it will take about 1,5 hours to reach the Hotel Roseg. From the hotel a path leads up the flat Val Roseg. After about 1/4 hour a marked path to the Chamanna Coaz bends off right hands. Take about 3 hours from the Hotel Roseg to the Chapanna Coaz.

A more comfortable possibilitie is to start at the Fuorcula Surley. But to reach this you have to use the cable car to the Piz Corvatsch. Leave the cable car at the middle station. From there walk about 1/2 hour to the Fuorcula on a big, crowded path. It's also possible to reach the Fuorcula Surley from the valley (St. Moritz or Silvaplana), this may take about 3-4 hours. From the Fuorcula Surley a well marked path leads to the Chamanna Coaz, it's a real nice path with a very impressive view to Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg above the Val Roseg. Over all, it will take about 3 hours from the cable car to the Chamanna Coaz.

Note:
The Chamanna Coaz is often crowded. Many people know how beautiful the path and the whole region is. So announce your overnight stay at the hut (phone : 082 - 66278).


For the S-face start at the Rifugio Marinelli CAI, 2813 m), 4 hours from Campo Moro which will be reached by car from Chiesa in Italy. The Rifugio Marinelli also can be reached from ChamannaCoaz (6 hours) using the Fuorcla Sella or from the Boval hut/Diavolezza crossing the Fuorcla Bellavista (5 hours).

Red Tape

You do not need any permissions, and you have not to pay any kind of fees (expect for the hut).

When To Climb

The routes of the Piz Glüschaint are climbable in Summer (june to september). The conditions at the Vadret da Roseg may turn very bad at late summer.

Camping

There are two campgrounds at Pontresina, one directly at the crossing Pontresina / St. Moritz about 3 km NW of Pontresina.

The other one - Camping Plauns - can be found abount 5 km SE of Pontresina below the morteratsch glacier (direction Bernina Pass).

For climbing the Piz Glüschaint most people will start at the Chamanna Coaz.

Mountain Conditions

The best place to get inrormations about the actual wether conditions is the Meteo Schweiz website.

Informations about mountain conditions also can be found at the homepages of St. Moritz or Pontresina .

Routes

The Vadret da Roseg is one of the most disrupted glaciers of the alps, so all routes of the Piz Glüschaint need a lot of caution. The view from the Chamanna Coaz to the glacier shows the situation. It's a must to study the route at the galcier from the hut, also don't be shy and ask the guardian of the Chamanna Coaz.

NE-flank
Regular route, ZS, 6 hours from Chamanna Coaz

From the hut follow a good visible, short path leading to the Vadret Roseg. The first thing is to reach a point at the base of the N-ridge of the Piz Glüschaint (a lot and big crevasses). The possible routes depends on the conditions, a possible one (in 2002) with a big zig-zag can be seen at the routes overview photo. Sometimes it may be possible to reach the base of the N-face more direct.

From the base of the N-face the glacier valley between Piz Glüschaint and La Sella is used for the route (crevasses !).
The glacier is used to reach the highest possible point at the base of the summit. The final part is done by the upper part
of the N-ridge (or sometime the upper part of the E-ridge).


W-flank
ZS/III, 6 hours from Chamanna Coaz

SW-ridge
ZS/III, ZS, 3 h from Fuorcla Fex-Scerscen, 7 hours in total

N-ridge
ZS/III/45°, ZS, 6 hours from Chamanna Coaz

The rating for the N-ridge - former known as a good ice route for beginners - seems to be incorrect (in my opinion). The former easy snowfields are gone. Instead of this my friends and me found a steep (50° or more) ice-field with difficult and even dangerous mixed climbing (we aborted the attempt).

S-face + E-ridge
WS/III-IV, 8 h from Rifugo Marinelli

Guidebook and map

The routes of the Piz Glüschaint are described in the guide book "Clubführer SAC Bündner Alpen band 5" (ISBN 3-85902-131-1)

The map is the "Landeskarte der Schweiz" (swiss national card) Nr. 1277 (Piz Bernina).

The N-ridge is also described in the out-of-print-book "Bernina - die 100 schönste Touren", but the description there doesn't match the real situation any longer.

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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selinunte01Southwest arete - important

selinunte01

Hasn't voted

In the old guide books, southwest arete is rated as UIAA II. In july 2009 I was informed by the guardian of the Coaz hut, that, due to glacier retreat, the passage from the glacier upon the rocks of Fuorcla dal Glüschaint is becoming more and more difficult. In periods with low snow there is now a 40 m high (!!) wall with loose rocks and UIAA grade IV (!) before you get on Fuorcla dal Glüschaint. A fixed belay for rapelling will be installed soon this year (2009) to facilitate the descend.
Posted Jul 22, 2009 4:01 pm

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