Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 46.36828°N / 9.93121°E |
County: | Italy/Swiss |
Activities: | Mountaineering |
Elevation: | 13110 ft / 3996 m |
What's New on this Page?
* Jan 6, 2023 - Ownership switched by Antonio Giani
* Jan 6, 2023 - Page under review
Second top in height after Piz Bernina of the entire omonimous group. In fact, it hasn’t only 4 meters to be the second 4.000! Twin top of Piz d'Argent, which breaks away with an elegant sharp ridge of ice and rock.
Three ridges detach from the top. Southwest, northwest (NNW) and southeast. The last at the base has 2 ramifications that lead to the glacier Fellaria. Instead the north ridge continues to Bellavista group, and among these, the Pass of Zupò (3.840m), allows easy connection between Glacier Fellaria in Italy to the glacier of Morteratsch in Schweiz. The two walls on the Italian side, overhang the glacier with steep rocky cliffs, while in the Swiss side a slide of ice spotted by rocks, lead below the "Fortezza" (upper part of Morteratsch glacier).
The name "Zupò" comes from the local dialect "Zuper", that means "hidden". In fact, the top is hardly visible from the north side, because it’s hidden from the tops of Bellavista. The entire traverse of the crests of Zupò and Argent, approached from both sides, is one of the most beautiful route of the Bernina group.
Ref. Marinelli is placed at the head of Valmalenco, but not visible from the valley. Valmalenco is a branch of the bigger Valtellina, reachable by car and busses from Sondrio, Milano and Bernina pass(CH).
Ref. MarcoRosa is also useful, but commonly used for the ascent of Piz Bernina.
From Swiss: Piz Zupò as the neighbour summits, lead the glacier of Morteratsch.
Ref. Diavolezza should be the easyest start point for overall, thanks to a cablecar service. Otherwise, from ref.Boval at the base of Morteratsch glacier.
Both places are reachable from Pontresina/S.Moritz.
ref. MarcoRosa: (3.597m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 48+12 (winter)places - open july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-51.53.70
ref. Marinelli: (2.813m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 210+14 (winter)places - open may/july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-51.15.77
ref. Carate Brianza: (2.636m) - C.A.I. Carate B. - 23 places - open july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-45.25.60
bivouac A. Pansera: (3.546m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 4 places - open all year
ref. Boval: (2.495m) - SAC Sektion Bernina CH - 100+12 (winter)places - open june/october tel. 0041-81-84.26.403
Hotel Diavolezza: (2.973m) - Private - 98 places - open all year - tel. 0041-81- 84.26.205
Books: "Bernina & Bregaglia Selected Climbs" Lindsay Griffin ISBN: 0900523603 Alpine Club (http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/).
"Berninagruppe" Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten Walther Flaig ISBN: 3763324178 Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München
"Guida dei monti d'Italia" TCI Bernina Silvio Saglio
"Bernina e Disgrazia" n. 2 G.Miotti - Edizioni Melograno
Maps: Kompass n. 93 - Bernina e Disgrazia Landeskarte der Schweiz n. 268 - Julierpass
Pontresina.com
Gesthouse Diavolezza
Valtellina.com
Rifugi Valmalenco