NW Buttress

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Geography

Parents

Routes

Northeast Ridge aka The Knife Ridge

Capitol Creek & Capitol Ditch Variation

Pierre Lakes approach

NW Buttress

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Grade: III

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Page By: iceisnice

Created/Edited: Sep 5, 2006 / Sep 9, 2006

Object ID: 222883

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Page Score: 86.03% - 3 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

One of the better mountaineering routes in Colorado.

Getting There

Hike the Capitol Creek Trail to the campsites on the west side of the peak.

Route Description

Hike up the steep talus to the base of the face. Follow a ledge to the left to an incredible 5.9 crack/flake system. First pitch is one of the best 5.9 pitches I've ever done. Climb obvious cracks to the start of a bulge into a chimney (belay off a bad bolt....backed up with gear obviously). Climb chimney at 5.8 with great pro and only one small section of loose rock (not as bad as L.D.'s book says). After the first two pitches there are several options. L.D.'s book says to aim for the right of the first tower. We went left with climbing never going over 5.6. Not sure exactly how many pitches as we simul climbed the rest of the route. Pass the first tower and stay on the ridge proper for several hundred feet (5.7). We passed the second tower on the left, L.D.'s book says to do it on the right. Our option was very fun with some real good crack climbing. Follow ridge to a large ledge that ends at the final face section. Climb the face (several variations possible) at 5.6 to the summit for 400ft. Descend knife ridge route.

Essential Gear

Two sets of nuts. Camalots .05-3.

External Links

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Images