Sewenhorn Westgratturm

Overview

Sewenhorn Westgratturm m. 2650

Sewenhorn Westgratturm is a fine granite tower rising along the Sewenhorn summit ridge. Its South face shows various beautiful climbing routes on very good rock. The approach is from the Meiental, a valley starting from Wassen and getting to the Sustenpass.

Getting There

ROAD ACCESS

From Andermatt - a small town at St. Gotthard Tunnel’s northern exit (Canton Uri) - reach Wassen and here turn to left following the road to Sustenpass, reaching Meien, the signpost to Farnigen and a first pull-out along the road (signpost to Sewenhutte). Carry on about three-hundred meters reaching a second wider pull-out m. 1613 (Gorezmettlenbach). Signpost to Sewenhutte. Parking. (15 km. from Andermatt).

From the town of Meiringen (Haslital, Berner Oberland) follow the road to Sustenpass, reaching Gadmen and the Sustenpass, then descent along the Eastern side reaching the place named Gorezmettlenbach m. 1613 (signpost to Sewenhutte). Parking in a pull-out. (40 km. from Meiringen)

WALKING ACCESS TO SEWEN HUT

From the Sustenpass road there are two approach’s paths to Sewen Hut; the better one is the higher (the second one coming from Wassen) starting from Gorezmettlenbach m. 1613. From here a very good path leads to Sewen Hut (1,20 hours from the pull-out).

A classic route on Sewenhorn Westgratturm South face

Epp-Verschneidung corner

Summit Altitude: m. 2650 D, F4c
Climbing length: 180 m.
First ascent: M. Epp – R. Hefti 1975 Re-equipped by Wisi Arnold und Kari
Stadler, 1998 Exposure: S
Starting point: Gorezmettlen (Sustenpass road)
Hut: Sewen Hut SAC Pfannenstiel A very interesting classic route on excellent granite offering a fine climb on a characteristic wide corner which gives the route’s line. All the belays have excellent equipment.

Route report (French scale)

It’s possible climb the route directly from Gorezmettlen (1000 meters dl. from the starting point to the summit). Otherwise you can stay overnight at the Sewen Hut.

From Sewen Hut head to North (on your left-hand side when getting to the hut) following a not very obvious trail rising towards a crag (equipped single pitch’s routes). From the crag turn to left following a long level trail leading to a steep and wide scree-slope. Climb it making a wide semicircle towards left to reaching the bottom of a very steep rocky and scree gully (red marks). Climb it, then traverse to right (red marks) skirting the rocks and reaching a huge block, nearby a red mark with a bolt. (1 hour from the hut, 2,20 hours from the parking).

L1 – From the starting point climb the gully, then its right side, leading to some slabs with good holds. Belay on the right. 4b
L2 – Up a good slab, leading to a little overhang; climb it on its left edge, then a fine wall, steep but with good holds, leading towards right inside a steep corner. Climb it and reach the stance. 4c
L3 - A very pleasant and beautiful climb along the characteristic wide corner, sloping at first, then steeper leads to a good stance a bit on the right of the corner. 4b
L4 – Another good and satisfactory pitch inside the corner. Belay on the left under an obvious overhang. 4b
L5 – From the stance climb straight towards the overhang, then skirt it on the right (crux) and reach the stance.
L6 – Easy rocks leading to the beautiful summit. Summit cairn and summit-book.

Best descent: from the little summit scramble down to reach the first abseil’s anchor, then make four abseils on the route. Another way, more complex, is scrambling down towards East (towards left facing out) along the summit ridge to reach a gully coming down at the bottom.

Other routes

- Voie des Mulhousiens 5c+ 180 m. - D. Ferrand, A. Muller, Ch. Ochsenbein, 1978 Re-equipped by Wisi und Fabian Arnold, 1999
- Paula und Jakob 5c, A0 180 m. - B. Müller and H. Zgraggen, 1991 Re-equipped by Wisi und Fabian Arnold, 1999

Essential gear

Rope 2x50, 8 quickdraws, friends 1-3, nuts, helmet, slings

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and mountaineering.

Hut

- Sewenhütte 2148 m

Owner: SAC-Pfannenstiel
Guardian: Walti and Ursi Gehrig
Size: 60 persons
Guarded from july to September
Phone: +41(0) 41 885 18 72

When to climb

Best season goes from July to the end of September

Meteo

Meteoswitzerland

Guidebooks and maps

“Schweiz plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel, Edition Filidor

Maps: CNS1211 Meientall – CNS 255 Sustenpass