Canadian Rockies Alpine Climbs

Page Type Page Type: Area/Range
Location Lat/Lon: 51.39750°N / 116.29417°W
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer
Sign the Climber's Log

*** = Suggested Routes

Based on my broad experience, the Canadian Rockies offer the finest collection of “true” alpine climbs in the world due to the extensive alpine climbing environs of glaciers, icefields and rock. This is my third Canadian Rockies grouping, the other two representing Canadian Rockies ice and Canadian Rockies scrambles. Together, these three beta pages covering the central Canadian Rockies would offer even the most avid alpine climber a lifetime’s worth of varying experiences and objectives.

Several books have been published showcasing several hundred alpine rated climbs from Waterton National Park on the US border to Jasper National Park to the north. This entire section of the Rockies straddles the continental divide which also serves as the border between British Columbia and Alberta. The most popular of these guide books is Sean Dougherty’s “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” (often locally referred to as the “Book of Lies”) and Bill Corbett’s recent publication (2004), “The 11,0000ers of the Canadian Rockies”. Bill’s book is far more comprehensive regarding peaks exceeding 11,000’, but of course many alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies do not meet that criteria.

Listing routes with no first hand experience available is not what this page is about. Rather, the listing involves “first hand accounts only” by climbers in the Canadian Rockies. The climbs will be listed via their respective “areas” (i.e. Banff). The areas will be listed in descending order of East to West. The order within the specific area will be maintained alphabetically. I can assure you that this listing only scratches the surface of what is available the entire summer and winter seasons up and down the central Canadian Rockies. I personally attempt to climb 40 technical Canadian Rockies routes every year and still have plenty more to experience.

Kananaskis Provincial Park

Mount Brock Climb

Mount Birdwood, II, 5.5

Mount Blane, II, 5.6***

Mount Brock, III, 5.7***

Mount Fable, II, 5.5***

Mount Indefatigable, II, 5.5***

Mount Joffre, III***

Mount Kidd, III, 5.7

Mount King George, II (Height of the Rockies Provincial Park)

Mount Lorette, II, 5.4***

Mount Lougheed, III, 5.5***

Mount Nestor, II, 5.5

Mount Sir Douglas, III, 5.5***

Wasootch Tower, II, 5.7

Banff National Park (Banff Area)

Greenwood-Boles, 5.8

Mount Assiniboine, II, 5.5***

Castle Mountain (via many routes)***

Mount Cory, II, 5.9***

Mount Edith, III, 5.8***

The Finger, Board Route, II, 5.6

Mount Ishbel, II, 5.4

Mount Louis, Gmoser Route, III, 5.8***

Mount Louis, Homage to the Spider, III, 5.10***

Mount Louis, Kor-Fuller, III, 5.10dRX

Mount Louis, Gargoyle, III, 5.10a

Mother's Day Buttress, II, 5.7

Mount Rundle Traverse, III, 5.5***

Banff National Park (Lake Louise Area)

East Ridge, IV, 5.7

Mount Aberdeen, II***

Haddo Peak, II

Mount Deltaform Traverse, III, 5.5***

Mount Deltaform, II, 5.5

Grand Sentinel, II, 5.9***

The Mitre, II, 5.5

Mount Neptuak, II, 5.5

Pinnacle Mountain, II, 5.6

Mount Temple, IV, 5.7***

Mount Victoria, North Summit, II

Unnamed Peak, II, 5.4

Banff National Park (Lake O’Hara Area)

Mount Huber

Mount Huber, II***

Hungabee Mountain, III, 5.4

Mount Lefroy, II***

Mount Victoria, South Summit, II***

Watch Tower, II, 5.7

Wiwaxy Peak, II, 5.6

Yoho National Park

 The President and Vice...

President and V. President, II***

Takakkaw Falls, II, 5.6

Goodsir Towers Traverse, IV, 5.4

Icefields Parkway (Banff and Jasper National Parks)

Ascent of St. Nicholas Peak,...

Mount Alberta, Japanese Route, V, 5.6***

Mount Andromeda, Sky Ladder, II***

Mount Athabasca, II***

Mount Cline, SW Ridge, II***

Diadem Peak, II***

Mount Forbes, NW Face, III

Mount Hector, III (winter; summer-II)***

Mount Kitchener, East Ridge, II, 5.2

St. Nicholas Peak, II

Mount Willingdon, I

Mount Woolley, II***

Jasper National Park

Mount Edith Cavell

Mount Brussels, III, 5.7***

Mount Edith Cavell, III, 5.3***

Mount Fryatt, II, 5.4***

Mount Lowell, II, 5.5***

Mount Olympus, II***

Roche Miette, IV, 5.10RX

Robson Provincial Park

Emperor Face, Mt. Robson,...

Mount Robson, Kain Face, IV***