Guglia dei Miracoli
The hinterland of the beach of Cala Sisine overlooking the Mediterranean Sea is a wild and sparsely attended area located in Supramonte di Baunei, one of the best climbing and hiking destination in Sardinia, situated in the North-East of the island. This environment is, however, full of interest and characterized by a primordial charm. In the middle of the wild Bacu Arala it rises a curious and suggestive limestone monolith- small but really dizzy - called Guglia dei Miracoli (Miracles Needle) by the first climbers in reason of its proximity to the cave "Grotta de su Miraculu".
Because of its hidden and secluded position the monolith was climbed for the first time only a few years ago. The only existing route, allowing you to reach the tiny top of this slender needle, is short but worthy to be climbed, also in reason of the superb setting in which it rises. Guglia dei Miracoli is a miniature version of the famous Aguglia di Goloritze, and also the name of the route - "Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco", meaning "White Mill Symphony" - is a playful reference to the famous Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento (Symphony of the Windmills), a mythical route climbed by Manolo and Gogna.
Access to the island of Sardinia Sardinia, the westernmost region of Italy, can be easily approached; by plane or alternatively by ferry-boat both from Livorno and Civitavecchia ports. The most convenient destination in Sardinia to visit Supramonte di Baunei, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Olbia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Olbia port or the near Golfo Aranci if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
From Olbia or Golfo Aranci, situated just a few kilometers North to Olbia, follow the Motorway SS131 towards Nuoro and Siniscola, exit Lula. From here head towards Dorgali on the road SP 38, cross the town and continue, running on the superb and panoramic road SS125, named ”Orientale Sarda”, leading to the little town of Baunei.
From Baunei, just before entering the village, turn to left following the road to the picturesque Church of San Pietro in Golgo (signpost Ristorante del Golgo); follow the road for about 10 km. and reach the lovely little church.
On the right of this latter continue to drive on a dirt road in the direction of Cala Sisine. The road continues with some ups and downs along the plateau, until it begins to descend sharply entering Codula Sisine. Further the road enters a narrow stretch between impressive rock walls, then the Codula widens again and before getting the coast, the road ends in locality Pran'e Murta, where you park your car.
Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco report - French scale Difficulty: F6a, 5c obbl. Climbing length: 100 m. Equipment: Bolts First ascent: M. Oviglia - G. Caddeo 3-4-2013 Starting point: Pran'e Murta (Codula Sisine)
A nice short climb getting the summit of a curious dizzy needle!
Approach - From the end of the road a cairn on the left side of the valley (facing towards the sea) marks the beginning of Bacu Arala, a narrow side valley of Codula Sisine that leads to the foot of Guglia dei Miracoli. The shady and wild valley is crossed by a narrow track rising gently to reach the confluence with the Bacu Erittili, where the valley widens. Here take the right track and shortly at a second fork ignore the left trail leading to the Cave of Miracles. Continue to walk between towering rock walls, unto to see the dizzying spire appearing in front of. Continue in the direction of the spire, overcoming in the last meters a steep slope of boulders and start to climb on the right edge the steep wall, overlooking both the scree and the path (30 minutes from the parking lot).