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4832 Hits
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86.85% Score
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23 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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40.17973°N / 9.61224°E |
County:
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Sardinia |
Activities:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Elevation:
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820 ft / 250 m |
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Overview
Geographical classification: Sardegna - Sardinia > Supramonte > Guglia dei Miracoli
Guglia dei Miracoli
The hinterland of Cala Sisine beach, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is a wild and sparsely attended area located in the Supramonte di Baunei, one of the best climbing and hiking destination in Sardinia, situated in the North-East of the island. This environment is, however, full of interest and characterized by a primordial charm. In the middle of the wild Bacu Arala it rises a curious and suggestive limestone monolith - small but really dizzy - called Guglia dei Miracoli (Miracles Needle) by the first climbers in reason of its proximity to the cave "Grotta de su Miraculu".
Sunset in Cala Sisine
Because of its hidden and secluded position the monolith was climbed for the first time only a few years ago. The only existing route, allowing you to reach the tiny top of this slender needle, is short but worthy to be climbed, also in reason of the superb setting in which it rises. Guglia dei Miracoli is a miniature version of the famous Aguglia di Goloritze, and also the name of the route - "Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco", meaning "White Mill Symphony" - is a playful reference to the famous Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento (Symphony of the Windmills), a mythical route climbed by Manolo and Gogna.
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Getting There
Access to the island of Sardinia
Sardinia, the westernmost region of Italy, can be easily approached; by plane or alternatively by ferry-boat both from Livorno and Civitavecchia ports. The most convenient destination in Sardinia to visit Supramonte di Baunei, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Olbia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Olbia port or the near Golfo Aranci if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
Road approach
From Olbia or Golfo Aranci, situated just a few kilometers North to Olbia, follow the Motorway SS131 towards Nuoro and Siniscola, exit Lula. From here head towards Dorgali on the road SP 38, cross the town and continue, running on the superb and panoramic road SS125, named ”Orientale Sarda”, leading to the little town of Baunei.
Panorama from the road "Orientale Sarda"
From Baunei, just before entering the village, turn to left following the road to the picturesque Church of San Pietro in Golgo (signpost Ristorante del Golgo); follow the road for about 10 km. and reach the lovely little church.
On the right of this latter continue to drive on a dirt road in the direction of Cala Sisine. The road continues with some ups and downs along the plateau, until it begins to descend sharply entering Codula Sisine. Further the road enters a narrow stretch between impressive rock walls, then the Codula widens again and before getting the coast, the road ends in locality Pran'e Murta, where you park your car.
Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco route report
Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco report - French scale
Difficulty: F6a, 5c obbl.
Climbing length: 100 m.
Equipment: Bolts
First ascent: M. Oviglia - G. Caddeo 3-4-2013
Starting point: Pran'e Murta (Codula Sisine)
A nice short climb getting the summit of a curious dizzy needle!
Approach - From the end of the road a cairn on the left side of the valley (facing towards the sea) marks the beginning of Bacu Arala, a narrow side valley of Codula Sisine that leads to the foot of Guglia dei Miracoli. The shady and wild valley is crossed by a narrow track rising gently to reach the confluence with the Bacu Erittili, where the valley widens. Here take the right track and shortly at a second fork ignore the left trail leading to the Cave of Miracles. Continue to walk between towering rock walls, unto to see the dizzying spire appearing in front of. Continue in the direction of the spire, overcoming in the last meters a steep slope of boulders and start to climb on the right edge the steep wall, overlooking both the scree and the path (30 minutes from the parking lot).
Bacu Àrala |
Guglia dei Miracoli |
Second pitch on Sinfonia |
Climbing report
L1 - Climb a vertical wall situated to the right of the yellow overhangs with drops carved unto the rock and then definitely slanting left reach the belay, 6a
L2 - Traverse left to reach the left edge and climb it, overcoming a more difficult step, then on easier ground to the belay near a tree, 5c
L3 - Climb directly the gray wall to the final stop on the tiny top of the spire, 5c
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Descent: 2 abseils - The first one from the summit to the second belay near the tree, the second one leads directly to the base of the needle
Red Tape
There are not particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area; cars must be parked with care, in any case without stopping the existing shepherd’s tracks.
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The Baunei area is lying inside Parco Nazionale Gennargentu e Golfo di Orosei. The wild territory of the park belongs to the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces and had been established in 1998.
Climate
Sardinia mild climate allows the climb all year round, though South and East faces are always too hot in summer. In winter the winds may sometimes be strong and cold.When to climb
It’s possible to climb all year round, but the best seasons are Spring and Fall.Accomodation
- Different possibilities on Golgo plateau, otherwise hotel and apartments in Baunei, the closest village.- Camping and wide choice of hotels and apartments in Cala Gonone
Meteo
Meteo Arpa SardegnaGuidebooks and maps
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Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches
Maurizio Oviglia
Trad and sport multipitch guidebook - V updated edition
Fabula 2015
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Sardegna
Maurizio Oviglia
Guida dei Monti d'Italia
Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano 1997
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