Monte Oddeu

Overview

Geographical classification: Sardegna - Sardinia > Supramonte > Monte Oddeu

Monte Oddeu 1063 m

The suggestive Monte Oddeu is an important summit belonging to the Supramonte di Dorgali, the Eastern sector of the Supramonte Massif, a primary climbing and hiking destination in Sardinia, situated in the North-East sector of the island. The peak is located between two amazing gorges:

- to the South the Su Gorropu Gorge, one of the most famous rock formation on the island, a narrow gorge dominated by mighty overhanging walls and cut through by the Flumineddu river, which flows with crystal clear waters through the limestone cliffs

- to the North the smaller Dolòverre di Surtana, a limestone valloon delimitated by two parellel walls in shape of rocky pillars

“Oddeu” in the sardinian dialect means “God’s mountain”; it seems that the place-name comes from the dazzling white colour of the peak, especially on its Western side, a karst rounded slope. This latter highly contrasts with the Eastern side, which shows a stunning wide and high wall build in by an excellent carved limestone, yellow and grey coloured, overlooking the Oddoene Valley, a place already known by the Romans, rich in vineyeards and olive-groves.

Getting There

Access to the island

Sardinia can be reached by plane or by ferry-boat, both from Livorno and Civitavecchia ports. The most convenient destination in Sardinia to visit the Supramonte area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Olbia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Olbia port or the near Golfo Aranci port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.

Road approach

The nearest village is Dorgali.

From Olbia or Golfo Aranci, situated just a few kilometers North to Olbia, follow the Motorway SS131 towards Nuoro and Siniscola, exit Lula. From here head towards Dorgali on the road SP 38 and reach the town, then turn to right taking the ring-road and continue, following the panoramic road SS125, named ”Orientale Sarda”, for about 3 km. After the fork with the road to Cala Gonone (on the left) continue briefly along the SS125, then leave the main road and take on the right a road descending into the Oddoene Valley.  Turn to left and follow the road winding in the valley and getting after some kilometers to the S’Abba Arva bridge over Rio Flumineddu. Park the car in a pull out near the bridge. Cross the bridge and turn to right, following a gravel road for about 400 meters as far as a pull out on the left.

Climbing routes of Monte Oddeu

On the stunning East Face of Monte Oddeu we can choose to climb amongst several sport routes and also some classic ones on superb limestone.

Approach - From Dorgali take the road SS125, called ”Orientale Sarda”, and follow it for about 3 km.; after the fork with the road to Cala Gonone (on the left) leave the main road and take on the right a road descending to the Oddoene Valley. Turn to left and follow the road getting to the S’Abba Arva bridge over Rio Flumineddu. Park the car before the bridge. Cross the bridge and turn to right, following a gravel road about 5 minutes. At  a terrace on the left turn to left and follow a trail getting to a wooden stairway,  which allows to step over the enclosure. The starting point of the various route are reached skirting the walls.

The routes from left to right (French Scale):

- La coda dell'angelo VI+ and A2, 200 m - Few equipped - First ascent: M. Bernardi, A. Gogna, M. Zanolla 1981
- La via d'En Pep 6b+, 6a obbl. - 305 m - Equipment to be integrated - A. Segura, P. Vilardell 2004
- Buena Vista Social Club 7a+, 6c obbl. - 210 m. - Equipped - L. Nadali, L. Ceron 1999
- Margarites 7a+, 6b+ obbl. - 220 m. - Equipped - A. Calvo, L. Nadali 1998
- Sale Grosso 6c+, 6a+ obbl. - 255 m. - Equipped - A. Calvo, L. Nadali 1997
- Nirvana 7b, 6b obbl. - 300 m. - Equipped - E. Lecis and co. 1997
- Tre tazze di te 6b, 6a obbl. - 210 m - Equipped - C. Pibiri, F. Erriu 2011
- La nostra Svizzera 6c, 6a+ obbl. - 235 m - Equipped - C. Marchi, M. Oviglia, E. Pinotti 2012
- A chent'annos 7a, 6b obbl. - 200 m - Mixed - R. Vigiani, L. Siliani 2015
- La mia Africa 6c+, 6b obbl. - 220 m. Equipped - C. Marchi, M. Oviglia 1994 - Fantastic climb on high quality rock, mainly on slabs and walls. Excellent equipment.
- Appointment with the beer 6c+, 6b obbl. - 200 m - Equipped - J. Bassier, M. Schaefer 2012
- Attenti a quei due 7a+, 6b+ obbl. - 200 m Equipped - M. Ogliengo, B. Villa 2014
- Ogliengo-Villa 6c, 6b obbl. - 70 m - Equipped - M. Ogliengo, B. Villa 2012
- Madame Bovary 7a, 6b obbl. - 200 m. - E. Lecis  from the top 1995

- Alfredo Alfredo 7a, 6b obbl. - 200 m - Equipped - C. Pibiri, F. Erriu 2012
- Abbas Abbadas 6b+, 6a obbl. - 200 m. - Equipped - C. Conca  from the top 2000
- Aurum tellus 6b+ - 80 m - Equipped - C. Conca, N. Putzu from the top 2002
- Via dei Finanzieri 6b+ (5c, A0) - 260 m - Historic route, pegs in place to be integrated - E. Beber, A. Partel 1973
- Vivere di Sogni 6c+, 6c obbl. - 155 m. - Equipped - C. Marchi, M. Oviglia, M. Zurru 1994 
- Est Asia 6c, 6b obbl. - 170 m. - Equipped - M. Oviglia, S. Sarti 1999
- L'imbrago bello stretto 6a, 6b obbl. - 185 m - Equipped - M. Marceddu, D. Turco 2015

- Bo Tèp 6c+, 6b+ obbl. - 200 m. - Equipped - C. Zampati, N. Tiraboschi, L. Ceron 1998
- Por el Pueblo oprimido 6c, 6a obbl. - 240 m. - Equipped - P. Pezzolato, S. Gojak 1998
- Prego porcini 6a+, 6a obbl. - 225 m - Not equipped - F. Figueroa, R. Thivel 1998
- Medio Verme VI, 305 m - Classic route not equipped  - G. Cicconi, S. Finocchi, M. Forcatura, M. Tacchi 1981
- Bang boom bang 6b, 6a obbl. - 200 m - Equipped - M. Schaefer and co. 2013 

- Compagni di viaggio 6a+, 6a obbl. - 210 m. - Equipped, some friends are useful - F. Cappa, E. Pinotti, P. Romanini 2000
- Codina di topo 6a, 5c obbl. - 160 m - Equipment to be integrated - C. Pibiri, F. Erriu 2008  
- Quindicesima Legione (North Ridge) UIAA IV - 180 m. - Classic climb, some pegs in place to be integrated - C. Andreatta, E. Beber, G. Cagnati 1973

More climbing info here: Climbingsardinia

Compagni di viaggio report

Compagni di viaggio report - French Scale

Summit altitude: m. 1063
Difficulty: F6a+, F6a+ obbl.
Climbing length: 210 m.
Exposure: East
Equipment: Bolts
First ascent: F. Cappa – E. Pinotti – P. Romanini 22–6-2000
Starting point: S’Abba Arva bridge

A spectacular route on excellent limestone and on homogeneous difficulties, running on a steep superb wall facing East. For this reason, summer is not a good period to climb this route.

Approach 

- From Dorgali take the road SS125, called ”Orientale Sarda”, and follow it for about 3 km.; after the fork with the road to Cala Gonone (on the left) leave the main road and take on the right a road descending to the Oddoene Valley. Turn to left and follow the road getting to the S’Abba Arva bridge over Rio Flumineddu. Park the car before the bridge. Cross the bridge and turn to right, following a gravel road for about 5 minutes. At  a terrace on the left turn to left and follow a trail getting to a wooden stairway,  which allows to step over the enclosure. The starting point of this route is just nearby the stairway, on the right end of East face.

L1 - Climb a little pillar cut by thin horizontal cracks, then a compact slab to a terrace with trees. Head to left and belay on a ilex. 6a+, 45 m.
L2 – Up directly over the belay, then climb slants to right and up a steep edge with blades. 5c+, 25 m.
L3 - Climb a superb and steep wall with water’s drops, then a slab slants to left and belay under an overhanging step. 6a, 25 m.
L4 – Climb a crack on the right of the stance, then on easier ground to another stance. 5a, 30 m.
L5 – A slanting- left pitch on another superb slab, then a short wall leads to a belay on a yellow zone. 5b, 6a, 25 m.
L6 – Slanting right to the bottom of a dihedrals’ sequence. Climb the dihedrals to a ledge. Traverse left on the narrow ledge to a stance.
L7 – Skirt a ginepro on the left, climb a white pillar then a wall with blades, leading to the summit ridge. 6a, 30 m.

Descent: from the summit ridge head to West to reach a gully. Scramble down the vegetated gully (cairns) to the Doloverre di Surtana and to the path on the bottom of the gorge. Turn to right and follow the path reaching the Scala e’Surtana and the starting point (30 minutes from the summit).

Monte Oddeu Normal Route from Oddoene Valley

From the pull out take the Scala ‘e Surtana path, rising with several hairpins and reaching the entrance of the Doloverre di Surtana, a saddle dominated by the North ridge of Monte Oddeu on the left and by the Monte Tondu on the right. Follow the path on the bottom of the gorge, when it forks turn to left (wooden signpost) getting soon the bottom of the Scala ‘e Cucuttos. 

The path rises quickly reaching the Cuccuru Ladu ridge-line m. 540.  From here head towards South along a crest called Mesattas, which rises at first regularly then steeply, crossing peculiar limestone’s slabs and blades and little valleys to the panoramic summit of Monte Oddeu.

Enjoy a superb 360° view over the Supramonte, the Surtana Gorge and the Valle Oddoene.

Descent: reversing the route  

Red Tape

No fees and no particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area.

All the Supramonte Massif is lying inside the Parco Nazionale del Gennargentu e del Golfo di Orosei. The wild territory of the park belongs to the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces and had been established in 1998. Its 73.935 hectares' extension includes 18 communes: Aritzo (NU), Arzana (OG), Baunei (OG), Belvi (NU), Desulo (NU), Dorgali (NU), Fonni (NU), Gadoni (NU), Gairo (OG), Oliena (NU), Orgosolo (NU), Seui (OG), Seulo (CA), Talana (OG), Tonara (NU), Urzulei (OG), Ussassai (OG), Villagrande Strisaili (OG).

Climate

The mild climate of the island allows the climb all around the year, though South and East faces are always too hot in summer. Sometimes the NW winds (maestrale) may be a problem in winter.

Meteo

Meteoblue Sardinia
Meteo ARPA Sardegna

When to climb and hike

It’s possible to climb all around the year on Monte Oddeu, but the best seasons are Spring and Fall.

Where to stay

Several accommodations possible in Dorgali and Cala Gonone.

Campsite, hotels and renting rooms in Cala Gonone. Hotels and huts in Dorgali and surroundings.

Guidebooks

"Pietra di Luna" - Trad & Multipitches Maurizio Oviglia - Trad and sport multipitch guidebook - V updated edition, Fabula 2015

"Sardegna" - Maurizio Oviglia - Guida dei Monti d'Italia, Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano 1997

Maps

Click here to enlarge Dorgali-Dorgali km 356enlarge

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE DORGALI MAP 3D Dorgali Map 3d

External Links

Planetmountain - Monte Oddeu