Although it is the smaller neighbour of the well known Sustenhorn, it is much appreciated by spring skiers, since there is no flat stretch, only white slopes from top to bottom. Even the top is made of snow, with ample room for 100 mountaineers. However, this mountain is a bore in summer, just walking on snow and ice, excecpt if you are one of the few who climb the north-west face, a mix of ice and rock, or the south-west ridge as an excellent exercise for mountains around Zermatt and Chamonix with difficulties IV+ and a long climbing day. An easier and shorter ridge shows towards west, which is real fun if you want to show the beauties of the Alps to a novice.
More annoying with this mountain is the fact, that on sunny weekends in May and June, there is some helicopter noise. 100 m below the summit is one of the 50 alpine landing places of Switzerland. The air tourists must take an official guide for the downhill ski.
Since the ascent from the Sustenpass road is the same as the Sustenhorn
, you should consult that site. Only at 3000 m do the ways seperate.
When To Climb
End of June - end of September.
Ski: May and June. Your can start earlier, but may not be able to drive as far as Steingletscher.
1863 m, opens usually with the opening of the road. usually in May. It opens before the complete pass road is open! It is not easy to get information about the road condition, most officials only know if the entire passroad is open. Try to call Hotel Steingletscher ++41 (0)33 975 1222. Steingletscher is an ideal starting point for skiers: easy Giglistock (to start with), Fünffingerstock, Sustenhorn, Gwächtenhorn.
2795 m, 70 places, info: ++41 (0)33 971 68 17.
Foot: From Steingletscher (1863 m) at the Sustenpass road, follow a small, paved road to a small lake (2033). You can leave your car there. Follow the path to the hut. It is possible, that some snowfields are icy. 2-3 hours. This way should also be followed with skis in early winter, when the crevasses show weak bridges.
Ski: Follow the same small road. Leave it after 1 km and head directly to the foot of Bockberg, traverse to left and reach the Steingletscher (glacier) as high as possible. Follow the ski route of the Sustenhorn. 3 hours or more, if the road is not open for cars.
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