The Joderhorn stands above the Monte Moro Pass on the Swiss-Italian border and at the head of the Saastal. It is a small peak but the summit gives excellent views of the huge East face of the Monte Rosa. Therefore it is frequently ascended by hikers following the normal route up the west flank from the Monte Moro Pass
The north side holds the much reduced Talliboden glacier. The South East through to the South West sides are composed of fine rock walls containing several rock climbs of varying difficulty.
TO Saas Grund: Many options, train, drive, bus, hitch hike
TO Mattmark: Regular busses run from the centre of Saas Grund to Mattmark via Saas Almegall, alternatively one can drive as far as the dam where there is a cafe and parking.
If you are insane (or miss the last bus down) it is possible to walk between Saas grund and the Mattmark dam.
FROM MATTMARK: For all routes follow the track on either shore of the Lake to the South end of the Lake. From here follow the signs to the Monte Moro Pass, after 1 hour or so you will reach a flat area with a large boulder with a signpost next to it. For the normal route and south and east face rock climbs continue to the pass. For the NE ridge head up the valley towards the small Talliboden glacier.
When To Climb
June-September. The rock routes should dry quickly after storms in the summer, although there is some lichen so damp conditions are probably best avoided.
This is a 1 day expedition, no need to use any huts. People making a bivouac must be gone by sunrise and may not leave tents up during the day.
try www.snowforecast.com for predicted snowfall, rain and freezing levels over the next 3 days.
The best English guidebook for routes on the Joderhorn and other mountains in the Eastern Valais is the Alpine Club's 'Valais Alps East' guide (1998). It is readily available in England and larger alpine centres in France+Switzerland.