Rimpfischhorn is located amidst of the mountain chain that links the Monte Rosa with the Mischabel peaks. It is not an extremely popular mountain, maybe it is too easy for the experienced and too demanding for the novice. This is surprising, since it can be climbed from both mountaineer Mecca's: Saas Fee and Zermatt. And the view from this mountain is extraordinary. Most climbers use - of course and by definition - the normal route from the Saas Fee side and sleep at the Britannia hut, and most of them prefer the skis. If you stay in Zermatt, the Hotel Fluhalp
(2616 m, only half an hour from the Blauherd chairlift station) or theTäsch hut would be your choice (see Täschhorn).
Even the Haute Route skiers and hikers who cross the nearby Adler pass on their long way from Saas Fee to Chamonix do not honor the Rimpfischhorn with a visit, since the climb from the Adlerpass takes 3 hours and offers bad rocks. The opposing ridge from the Allalinpass is occupied by a grim gendarme (policeman) and is - understandingly - not much appreciated by the public either. So most tourists concentrate on the 5-6 hour walk from the Brittania hut on the normal route in ice and snow. If you think of the many crevasses that have been opened for you in fall, it is not surprising that most mountaineers prefer deep spring snow for excellent skiing.
Bring with you a rope, axe and crampons. Maybe you do not need them in spring.
Link for books and maps:
Literature and Maps
Walliser Führer, Vol. IV edited by the Swiss Alpine Club,
French: Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, Vol. IV
Map Nr. 506 Matterhorn - Mischabel 1:50'000
Map Nr. 284 Ski 1:50'000
From the Britannia hut
(3030 m) go down to the Allalinglacier, which killed almost 100 construction workers some decades ago when its ice fell down on its dormitories in the Saas valley. Walk along the south face of the Allalinhorn and climb the Allalinpass (3789 m). Then go left (south-west) for one mile and keep your altitude. Cross below point 3662 located at the lower end of a ridge that ends at the first big gendarme of Rimpfischhorn's north ridge. Now climb straight up the Rimpfischhorn. At ca. 4000 m, the slope of the glacier comes to an and and skiers will leave their gear there. The rest is a steep couloir. Leave it after 70 m ascent and go to the left until you reach a ridge. This ridge offers exposed climbing (one passage II+) to a minor summit. From here easy to the main summit.
Summer tourists who do not like to do the same way twice and love rock climbing can reach the Allalinpass directly via the north ridge. One problem is the Grand Gendarme (4108 m) a 50 m high tower that can be omitted by keeping on its right-hand side (east), sometimes icy. The dry west side is also possible, but the rock is of poor quality. However, excellent rock and holds allows you to climb this almost perpendicular gendarme on the west side (IV). 3 hours from the summit to the Allalinpass, gendarme included.
If you come from the Täsch hut
(2701 m) you will turn right to the point below 3662 m before you reach the Allalinpass. 6 hours.
Parking fee in Saas Fee. Sfr. 9.50 (year 2005)
When To Climb
Ski: March to July
Foot: June to September
Accommodation1. Britannia Hut (3030m)
There are 3 usual ways to reach the hut.
a. Felskinn 2989 m.
Two cable cars reach this place, both starting in Saas Fee (1800m). This is the usual ascent with skis. In summer follow the dirty road to Egginerjoch (2989 m). Do not trust the yellow signals on the Joch. From the Joch you can see the hut. Ugly approach to the hut. Ca. 1 hour. Of course, you can walk from Saas Fee. Nice walk to "Maste 4" (2572 m). Afterwards ugly ski roads. But interesting insight how short-sighted tourism can ruin the nature. Car park in Saas Fee per day: sfr. 9.50 (2005)
b. Plattjen 2570m.
A cable car connects Plattjen with Saas Fee. A wonderful path leads from Plattjen to the hut along the east side of the Egginer. Excellent view. Not suited with skis. 2-3 hours. Recommended.
c. Zer Meiggeru (1740 m).
Longest but most beautiful ascent to the Britannia hut. Not suited for skiing. Excellent path and wonderful view all the way up. This is my favorite. Good for acclimatization. Free car park. Bus from Saas Fee every hour. 3-4 hours.
2.Täsch hut (2701 m)
(2701 m) from Taesch (1450 m) in 3-4 hours
3. Hotel Fluhalp (2616m)
in 1 hour from the cable car station Blauherd (2590 m) above Zermatt
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