Overview


Täschorn is the neighbour of Dom. The two montains belong to the same ridge (Mischabel group). Täschorn is a little lower than Dom but more difficult to access because there is mandatory rock climbing. Täschorn is a 3 sides pyramid. East face is above Saas Fee, W face is above Täsch (last village before Zermatt), and huge South face is above Täschalp (Ottavan). Each side belongs a glacier: on Täsch side is Kingletscher, on Ottavan side is Weingartengletscher, on Saas side is Feegletscher.

The normal route is on the SE ridge starting from Mischabeljoch. To join the Mischabel pass, it's possible to come from either Saas Fee side or Täsch side - more common-.

The best climnbing period is summertime : July, August, September

How to get there


by car (highly recommended)

Matter valley side:
Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> st.-Niklaus >> >> Randa >> Täsch parking or small road to Ottavan.

Saas Fee side:
Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> Saas Grund or Saas Fee.



For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Geneva international airport. Car or train to Sierre (Rhone valley) , followed by Post bus to Zinal . Car highly recommended but not mandatory if you don't move at any hour.

General Situation Map

Swiss rails (SBB-CFF) time table


Red Tape


No red tape except parking price in Saas Fee and Täsch -same park place are used for Zermatt access-.

Tolerance to park in Täschalp for climbers.

First ascents


1862: Täschhorns first tentative on Nordwest face.
1876: J. Jackson tried with Christian und Ulrich Almer to climb the SE ridge, That is today the normal route after Mischabelbiwak construction.
1887: Joseph Andermatten und E. Mummery clibed the 2 Km long SW ridge (Devil's ridge).
1906: Franz und Josef Lochmatter und Josef Knubel with V.J. Ryan und Geoffrey Wintrop Young climbed Täschhorns south wall.

Routes overview


Author: Mathias Zehring, Date: Sept 21, 2002 04:57 AM
According to the guidebook by Waeber:

- SE ridge: AD, G 6, UIAA III, 5 h from the Mischabeljoch bivouac

- NW flank: PD+, G 5, UIAA II+, 6 h from the Dom hut, also possible from the reconstructed Kin hut

- N ridge : AD, G 6, UIAA III, 5 h from the summit of the Dom

- WSW ridge (devil's ridge ): AD+, G 9, UIAA IV, 8-10 h from the Kinluecke

- SO Face : TD+

- E Face : AD+

Täschhorn huts


Täsch hut 2700m, capacity 65
Mischabeljoch Bivouac 3861 m, capacity 10
Täschalp hut: 2214 m, capacity 15
Hôtel Längflue: 2870 m, capacity 220
Kin hut: 2584 m, capacity 32
Dom hut: 2940 m, capacity 75

Hut access overview


From Täsch :
Ottavan - Rotbach - Weingartengletscher - Mischabeljoch Biwak 3851m (7h-8h)
Ottavan - Täschhütte 2701m (3h)
Zermatt train- Schlangengruebe - Blasi - Ottavan - Täschhütte 2701m (3.30h)
Zermatt train- Sunnegga (cable car) - Tufteren - Ober Sattla - Täschhütte 2701m (3.30h)


From Randa : Geeren - Lärchberg - Domhütte 2940m (4h)

From Saas Fee (Rhône valley - Visp - Saas Fee): Bahn Längflue - Feegletscher - Mischabeljoch Biwak 3851m (6h)

Glaciers


Kingletscher on the west side,
Weingartengletscher on the south side,
Feegletscher on the east side.

Täschhorn west face



Täschhorn east face



Täschhorn south face



Täschhorn south face details



Teufelsgrat



Kinhorn 3752m


Kinhorn is a secondary summit on the Täschorn SW ridge

Leiterspitzen 3409m


Leiterspitzen are secondary summits on the Kinhorn SW ridge

Wild life...



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Täschhorn

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