Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.97080°N / 7.60410°E |
Elevation:
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13684 ft / 4171 m |
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Overview
Dent d'Hérens is a neighbour of the Matterhorn on the border ridge between Italy and Switzerland.
Added by sokolxxx, July 31, 2005 12:36 PM :
Dent d'Hérens is one of the wilderness and most interesting 4000m Alpine Peaks. In the unusual Valpelline Valley is one of the most impressive 6th hours tour close to the bottom of the mountain.
it is less often climbed because it's summit is less spectacular and less known. The normal route to the summit is on Italian side. One of the interrest for going to Dent d'Hérens is the view on Matterhorn.
From Switzerland, the north face of the mountain is an huge ice face. From Schönbiel hut you've got a fantastic view on this nord face, first climbed by Willo Welzenbach.
The normal route go's through the southwest face and the west ridge to the summit.
difficulty : PD : long glaciertour, rockclimbing till II grad. The westridge is "aerial".
5-6 hours from cabane to the summit (1400 Hm )
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Getting There
When you will become to the Place Moulin where the route is starting, you will see your target - Dent d'Herens - from Parking.
The usual starting point for the normal route is Place Moulin in Valpelline valley (Val d'Aoste region, Italy). It can be the Schönbielhütte (4-5 hours from Zermatt ) joining the Italian border by Col de Valpelline.
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Red Tape
no red tape
When To Climb
summer but very early in the morning to have good conditions
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Camping and Huts
Added by sokolxxx Date: July 31, 2005 1:04 PM :
The nearest camping is in Bionaz but I prefer drive to Lake di Place Moulin where you can pitch the tent on helicopter landing-ground (but early morning your tent can be strong windy tested by helicopter) or try to go on to Prarayer (2005m). There is beautifull and expensive refuge and thousands hectare of mountains meadows.
Camping in Randa / Täsh / Zermatt on the Swiss side.
Here are links to the Dent d'Hérens huts:
Schönbielhütte SAC Section Website
Schönbielhütte Wallis Hut Page
Rifugio Aosta
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routes overview
normal route (Aosta hut - SO face - O ridge): PD+
O ridge: AD-
NO face : AD
E ridge: D
N face : TD+
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1st ascents
O ridge: 07/18/1873: A.Gilles Puler, J.J Pierr, E.Maquignaz, L.Carrel
E ridge: 07/30/1906: E.Ryan, J. Lochmatter, F. Lochmatter
N face : 08/10/1925: W. Welzenbach, E.Allwein
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Dent d'Hérens glaciers
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External Links
- Dent d'Hérens at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
- Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.
2 Routes
sokolxxx - Jul 31, 2005 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentDent d'Herens is one of the wilderness and most interesting 4000m Alpine Peaks. Unusual Valpelline Valley opened one of most impressive 6th hours tour through the bottom of this where the civilization expires revealing the wildworld. When you will become to the Place Mulin where the way is starting, you will see your target - Dent d'Herens - from Parking.
sokolxxx - Jul 31, 2005 1:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThe nearest camping in Bionaz but I prefer drive to Lake di Place Moulin where you can pitch the tent on helicopter landing-ground (but early morning your tent can be strong windy tested by helicopter) or try to go on to Prarayer (2005m). There is beautifull and expensive refuge and thousands hectare of mountains meadows.
Mauntainfreak - Jan 7, 2016 10:23 am - Hasn't voted
FotoThis photo of Dent d'Herens was taken from a plane (click it to enlarge):