Dent d'Hérens is a neighbour of the Matterhorn on the border ridge between Italy and Switzerland.
Added by sokolxxx, July 31, 2005 12:36 PM :
Dent d'Hérens is one of the wilderness and most interesting 4000m Alpine Peaks. In the unusual Valpelline Valley is one of the most impressive 6th hours tour close to the bottom of the mountain.
it is less often climbed because it's summit is less spectacular and less known. The normal route to the summit is on Italian side. One of the interrest for going to Dent d'Hérens is the view on Matterhorn.
From Switzerland, the north face of the mountain is an huge ice face. From Schönbiel hut you've got a fantastic view on this nord face, first climbed by Willo Welzenbach.
The normal route go's through the southwest face and the west ridge to the summit.
difficulty : PD : long glaciertour, rockclimbing till II grad. The westridge is "aerial".
5-6 hours from cabane to the summit (1400 Hm )
When you will become to the Place Moulin where the route is starting, you will see your target - Dent d'Herens - from Parking.
The usual starting point for the normal route is Place Moulin in Valpelline valley (Val d'Aoste region, Italy). It can be the Schönbielhütte (4-5 hours from Zermatt ) joining the Italian border by Col de Valpelline.
no red tape
When To Climb
summer but very early in the morning to have good conditions
Camping and Huts
Added by sokolxxx Date: July 31, 2005 1:04 PM :
The nearest camping is in Bionaz but I prefer drive to Lake di Place Moulin where you can pitch the tent on helicopter landing-ground (but early morning your tent can be strong windy tested by helicopter) or try to go on to Prarayer (2005m). There is beautifull and expensive refuge and thousands hectare of mountains meadows.
Camping in Randa / Täsh / Zermatt on the Swiss side.
Here are links to the Dent d'Hérens huts:
Schönbielhütte SAC Section Website
Schönbielhütte Wallis Hut Page
normal route (Aosta hut - SO face - O ridge): PD+
O ridge: AD-
NO face : AD
E ridge: D
N face : TD+
O ridge: 07/18/1873: A.Gilles Puler, J.J Pierr, E.Maquignaz, L.Carrel
E ridge: 07/30/1906: E.Ryan, J. Lochmatter, F. Lochmatter
N face : 08/10/1925: W. Welzenbach, E.Allwein
Dent d'Hérens glaciers