Mount Yoran

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
County:
Lane
Activities:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer, Fall
Elevation:
7100 ft / 2164 m
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79.47% Score
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Mount Yoran
Created On: Oct 14, 2002
Last Edited On: Dec 22, 2008

Alpine jewel

Mt. Yoran towers over Divide...
Mt yoran , Oregon cascades.
Mt Yoran, Oregon cascades.
Mount Yoran is The prominant peak in a small complex of peaks that rise above the Divide lake basin. The basin is the northern extension of the Diamond Peak alpine region of the Diamond peak wilderness.

It is rugged and picturesque, and can be seen from many locations from Odell lake on the east side to the Salt creek tunnel west of Willamette Pass. Mount Yoran is a volcano that last erupted 400,000 years ago. The peak is an eroded shield volcano. The composition is Basalt and Andesite. What is present now is the weathered resistant plug.

The mountain is of interest to climbers. All profiles of the peak appear to have challenging lines. The peak By it's easiest route (south)is a loose class 3 climb with some fourth class potential if you dare! The north/east side has a doable 3rd class scramble, access is more difficult.
The peak does offer a couple of couliers that in winter/spring may offer some good snow climbing. a technical rock climbing ascent is possible, rock is questionable.

See the "Photos" page for a photo with the walk-up route shown.--(Walk-up route info courtesy of "zzril").

Getting There

Coming from the north or south on Interstate-5 take exit 188 east willamette hwy/Klamathfalls. Follow State Hwy 58 for 36 miles till you come to the town of Oakridge. After stopping for supplies and or gas proceed thru town until you reach milepost 38 take the right turn for Hills Creek resevior. Travel south for about .7tenths of mile. here you will come to a fork stay to your left. you are now on road 23, follow this for twenty miles till you come to Hemlock Butte/ Vivian lake trailhead
Turn left at a hiker-symbol sign immediately beyond the pass and park at the Vivian Lake Trailhead.

Follow the trail about a mile to Notch Lake. Keep on going. At a trail junction about 0.2 mile, turn right on the Mount Yoran Trail (the trail does not ascend Mount Yoran). Follow the trail about 3 miles to Divide Lake ( a good spot to camp, as long as you stay at least 300 feet away from the lake or the nearby streams). Hike cross-country to the northeast of the lake to Mount Yoran's base.
In the winter, the best access to the mountain is to park at Salt Creek Falls. Navigate up the prominent drainage. Follow the RR tracks past a rock cut and then head up when it seems kind of marshy. I would recommend staying climber's left of the gully. This is about a 12 mi. R/T on snowshoes. Definitely bring ice axe, helmet, crampons. The North side has the potential to generate some SICK ice routes in the right conditions.--(Winter information courtesy of "zzril").

Red Tape

Since Mount Yoran is in the Diamond Peak Wilderness, a wilderness permit is needed to legally stay overnight in the area. Permits are free and are availible at wilderness trailheads. Remember to stay at least 300 feet away from lakes or streams. Fires are not allowed in summer or fall, as the fire danger is always considered "Extreme" from late May till the first snows of the fall season.

When To Climb

Mount Yoran is almost always climbed in the summer. It is feasible to climb in the winter, but only if you are an experienced snow and rock climber and if you can suffer extremely cold temperatures.

Camping

Camping in the Diamond Peak Wilderness is acceptable, but you must have a wilderness permit to stay overnight. Wilderness permits are free and are availible at trailheads. Stay at least 300 feet away from lakes or streams. Fires are not allowed in summer and fall.

wilderness/ forest info

You can check out theMiddle fork ranger district in Westfir for current road and forest conditions and other info on the Diamond Peak Wilderness.national weather service<

Other

Check out the neat Hemlock Butte lookout near the Vivian Lake Trailhead. The views extend to Mount Yoran and Diamond Peak.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-14 of 14

Popoff - Oct 17, 2002 6:51 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

1) I do not know of any books that include routes on Mount Yoran, but 100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades has the hike description to the Divide Lake, near the base of the mountain.

2) The peak is not a walk-up. It is rated a 5.1-5.2 in difficulty. However, the technical portion of the climb (the monolith) is on top of a hill. The hill is a simple walk-up to the base of the rock, but after that the route is technical.

rpc

rpc - Oct 17, 2002 8:46 am - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

thanks.

can't wait to give it a go in that case (the 5.2 sounds like it could be fun).

rpc

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:01 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you for the information. I will integrate it into the Mount Yoran text.

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:05 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you for showing a route on the photo. It will help potential climbers.

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:06 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you once again for all of your helpful information.

rpc

rpc - Oct 16, 2002 11:30 am - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

nice page and a cool looking mountain (that I haven't heard of before)!

2 questions:

1. do you know of any books it is listed in

2. how technical are the routes to its summit - the mazamas web page description of it for instance claims that it's a walk up??

much thanks.

rpc

Popoff - Oct 17, 2002 6:51 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

1) I do not know of any books that include routes on Mount Yoran, but 100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades has the hike description to the Divide Lake, near the base of the mountain.

2) The peak is not a walk-up. It is rated a 5.1-5.2 in difficulty. However, the technical portion of the climb (the monolith) is on top of a hill. The hill is a simple walk-up to the base of the rock, but after that the route is technical.

rpc

rpc - Oct 17, 2002 8:46 am - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

thanks.

can't wait to give it a go in that case (the 5.2 sounds like it could be fun).

rpc

zzril

zzril - Nov 21, 2002 12:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

There is a 3rd/4th class scramble via a ramp on the southeast side of the peak. This ramp is accessible from both the North and South, with the South side being a bit more accessible.

zzril

zzril - Nov 21, 2002 12:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

I added some lines to the first photo submitted by Popoff to show the walk-up.

zzril

zzril - Nov 21, 2002 12:34 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

If there's lots of snow, the trek is a bit more arduous, but can definitely be done in a day. Park at Salt Creek Falls and navigate up the prominent drainage. Follow the RR tracks past a rock cut and then head up when it seems kind of marshy. I would recommend staying climber's left of the gully. This is about a 12 mi. R/T on snowshoes. Definitely bring ice axe, helmet, crampons. The North side has the potential to generate some SICK ice routes in the right conditions.

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:01 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you for the information. I will integrate it into the Mount Yoran text.

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:05 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you for showing a route on the photo. It will help potential climbers.

Popoff - Nov 22, 2002 7:06 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Thank you once again for all of your helpful information.

Viewing: 1-14 of 14