Dromedary Peak is a rugged, seldom-visited peak in the Wasatch range and offers solitude from the crowds climbing the more popular Twin Peaks to the west. Dromedary offers a Class 3 experience similar to it's neighbors Sunrise and Twin Peaks. It also offers a great snow climb in winter and late spring. It's location in the middle of the Wasatch range provides good views of surrounding peaks and mountain ranges.
From Interstate 215 southeast of downtown Salt Lake City, take the 6200 South Exit (Exit 6) Turn right (east). 6200 South turns into Wasatch Boulevard Follow Wasatch Blvd to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon Signs point to the Brighton/Solitude ski resorts Turn east (left) and measure from this point Follow Big Cottonwood Canyon Road 4.2 miles to the Mill B South Trailhead The trailhead is on the south (right) side of the road Overflow parking is available along the road Mill B South trailhead provides access to Lake Blanche and Broads Fork
From the west end of the Mill B South trailhead parking lot a sign marks the beginning of the Broads Fork trailhead. The trail begins by heading west up the timbered slope. After 0.25 miles the trail turns left and enters the Twin Peaks Wilderness area. The trail continues climbing past a large rock on the the right (west), climbs over a small ridge and enters the Broads Fork drainage. The trail levels off as it meanders southwest toward the stream. A few yards short of the stream, the trail turns sharply left (south) and climbs steeply to the stream crossing for another 0.25 miles.
There is a sturdy, wood bridge that crosses the stream at 7200 feet and 1.25 miles from the trailhead. After crossing the bridge to the west side of the stream, resume climbing south up the Broads Fork drainage. The trail climbs past several small benches for 0.75 miles to reach the meadows at 8400 feet. The trail is well-maintained and clearly distinct to the meadows. A small spur branch of the trail veers to the right to reach the top of the knoll and provides an excellent view of Mount Dromedary, Sunrise Peak and Twin Peaks. The main trail continues left and slightly east toward the stream.
Across the stream the trail is less distinct. Depending upon the time of year and the previous year's snowpack, a choice to continue along the main trail or travel across consolidated snow can be made. It is easier to take the right spur trail previous mentioned if the route over consolidated snow is chosen. Both routes converge higher in the Broads Fork drainage. Caution should be taken when traveling above the meadows in winter or late spring.
Several of the slopes are prone to avalanches. Late spring climbs should not be attempted until the snow has broken from the east-facing slabs of Twin Peaks and ice axe and crampons are recommended. After crossing the stream, the main trail contours east around a beaver pond. Past the beaver pond the standard route climbs through the trees and continues climbing along the east side of the drainage into upper Broads Fork beneath the north face of Sunrise Peak. Beneath the shadow of Sunrise¡¦s north face the route to Twin Peaks and Sunrise¡¦s west ridge turns southwest.
The route to Dromedary and Sunrise¡¦s east ridge turns left (east.) Dromedary can be climbed from either the Dromedary/Sunrise saddle along the west ridge or from the east ridge and the Blanche Fork ridge. Both routes are Class 3 and will be described. From beneath the north face of Sunrise, the west route ascends loose scree or snow southeast toward the Sunrise/Dromedary saddle. The slope is moderately steep and climbs steadily. The route steepens to ascend the final 200 feet to the Dromedary/Sunrise saddle.
From the saddle descend south for 20-30 feet on the Little Cottonwood Canyon side of the ridge. Contour slightly to the east. Dromedary's summit is visible from this point. Climb the most obvious gully on loose rock to the gain the ridge just west of the summit. Scramble along the ridge a short distance to the summit on mostly Class 3 rock. The standard route climbs under the north face of Dromedary to reach the east slope.
From the upper portion of Broads Fork at 9800 feet turn left (east) and aim for the northeast shoulder of Dromedary. Climb loose scree and boulders or snow to reach the ridge between Broad¡¦s Fork and Blanche Fork about 200 feet north of the east slopes. From the ridge climb south near the ridge. Climb a short, steep section to reach the east-facing slopes. The remainder of the route is visible from this point. Climb broken ledges on gentle, sloping rock. Care should be taken to stay left (south) along the east slope. The ridge along the north is more difficult and exposed. Climb a few hundred feet along Class 3 rock to reach the summit at 11,107 feet.
No permits or fees are required and camping is allowed within the Twin Peaks Wilderness area. Summer weekends can present some parking challenges for the convenience of the lot, but parking is allowed along the roadway.
The general climbing season is June-September, however, the mountain can be climbed all year. Winter ascents present avalanche danger and only experienced mountaineers should attempt the peak in winter. Lake spring ascents are recommended once the snow has consolidated and the final snow has broken off the slabs east of Twin Peaks. Crampons and ice axe are recommended for winter and late spring ascents.
Camping is allowed within the Twin Peaks Wilderness area. Camping at the meadows within 2 miles of the trailhead is usually preferred.
Utah Avalanche Forecast Center gives a broad overview of the entire range's conditions in winter. Phone #(801)364-1581.