Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.36565°N / 9.92563°E
Additional Information County: Italy/Swiss
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Skiing
Additional Information Elevation: 12943 ft / 3945 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

 

Cresta Guzza and Piz d Argent.

 

Piz Zupo and Piz Argient

Mighty pillar, angle of the ridge watershed between the Forcola d’Argent and the West Forcola Zupò.

It has a swiss side that raises from the highest stands of Glacier Morteratsch with a coating of ice and snow, elegant, but with little imposing. It contrasts, the rocky Italian side, consisting of a western wall and a southern spur.

The western wall is a trapezium, furrowed by ledges. The red southern spur, is a triangular compact cliff, culminating to a lower second summit.

It is regarded as the higher twin Piz Zupò , with forms the chain of peaks separated from Piz Bernina, including the Cresta Guzza, Bellavista and Piz Palù. Although part of the Bernina group, it is considered slightly apart and, second in height only to Piz Zupò (3.996m).  

Pizzo Roseg, Argento e Zupo...

The mountain is geologically formed by three ridges. The east and the west form two forks that connect it to its twin Piz Zupò and Cresta Guzza(besides being border ridges); instead the south, is a ridge wherefrom various branches lead to Fellaria glacier. Its northern side cloaked in ice is very similar to its neighbour Zupò, and that makes them easily confused.

The summit had over the years various names including: ”Monte Rosso di Dentro”, ”Piz Blondina”, ”Piz Ladners” and only in the last century “Piz d’Argent”(argent means silver).

 

Climb History

First ascent Northeast ridge - C.Grass/Seiler/Seldeneck/J.B.Walter - 1869

 

Southeast flank - A.Corti/G.Vernoni - 17/08/1910

East edge of SSE ridge - A.Bonacossa/R.Rossi - 11/09/1911

West wall - G.Soncelli/I.Dell'avo - 20/08/1937

NNO ridge - A.Corti/G.Dell'andrio - 10/08/1920

 

Main routes

NNW ridge From ref.Marco e Rosa. The most common route from Italy and Swiss. Easy ascent on ice (F easy).

 

Southeast flank From ref.Marinelli. The route follow the steepy glacier beetwen the Piz d'Argent and the Piz Zupò. The route change every year. The glacier is furrowed by many serracs and crevasses. Not advisable (AD quite difficult).

SSE ridge From ref. Marinelli. Very long and charming route. Very good rock quality. Advisable and probably the best (TD very difficult up to 5° UIAA).

WSW ridge From ref. Marinelli. (AD+/D-).

West wall From ref. Marinelli. Very dangerous(D difficult).

ENE ridge This is the ridge that connect to Piz Zupò. Crossed along the traverse of the two summits. (F easy).

 

Approach to the area

From Italy: The best approach from Italy start from the ref. Marinelli. Useful for all the summits of Bernina group. It can be reached from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n° 5 in 3hours. Or from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n° 7 in 5hours (longer and not advisable).

Ref. Marinelli is placed at the head of Valmalenco, but not visible from the valley. Valmalenco is a branch of the bigger Valtellina, reachable by car and busses from Sondrio, Milano and Bernina pass(CH).

Ref.MarcoRosa is also useful, but commonly used for the ascent of Piz Bernina.

From Swiss: Piz d'Argent as the neighbour summits, lead the glacier of Morteratsch.

Ref. Diavolezza should be the easyest start point for overall, thanks to a cablecar service. Otherwise, from ref. Boval at the base of Morteratsch glacier.

Both places are reachable from Pontresina/S.Moritz

Huts and Bivouacs

ref. MarcoRosa: (3.597m) - CAI Sondrio - 48+12(winter)places - open july/sept - tel.0039-0342-51.53.70

ref. Marinelli: (2.813m) - CAI Sondrio - 210+14(winter)places - open may/july/sept - tel.0039-0342-51.15.77

ref. Carate Brianza: (2.636m) - CAI Carate B. - 23 places - open july/sept - tel.0039-0342-45.25.60

bivouac A. Pansera: (3.546m) - CAI Sondrio - 4 places - open all year

ref. Boval: (2.495m) - SAC Sektion Bernina CH - 100+12(winter)places - open june/october tel.0041-81-84.26.403

Hotel Diavolezza: (2.973m) - private - 98 places - open all year - tel.0041-81- 84.26.205

 

Books and Maps

Books: "Bernina & Bregaglia Selected Climbs" Lindsay Griffin ISBN: 0900523603 Alpine Club (http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/)

"Berninagruppe" Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten Walther Flaig ISBN: 3763324178 Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München

"Guida dei monti d'Italia" TCI Bernina Silvio Saglio

"Bernina e Disgrazia" n.2 G.Miotti - Edizioni Melograno

Maps: Kompass n.93 - Bernina e Disgrazia Landeskarte der Schweiz n.268 - Julierpass

Links

Pontresina.com

Swissgeo

Gesthouse Diavolezza

Valtellina.com

Rifugi Valmalenco



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