Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.37800°N / 9.95900°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Additional Information Elevation: 12835 ft / 3912 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

One of the most beautifull mountains in Bernina massif. The mountain has 3 summits on a ridge covered by a lot of ice: E summit (3882m), central summit (3905m), W summit (3823m). The W part of the summit ridge is on the Swiss_Italian border. Piz Palü has a famous N Face with 3 rocky spurs separate by ice couloirs.

Piz Palü summits

Piz Palü north side

Piz Palü east side

Piz Palü south side

Sunrise on Piz Palü

Getting There

St. Moritz, Pontresina, Cable car up to Diavolezza Author: Fred Date: Feb 27, 2004 09:33 AM The site Bergbahnenengadin has approach information - click on map for an excellent drawing showing the peaks etc.

When To Climb

Summer (june to september)

Main routes overview

Route name: Piz Palü traverse Difficulty: AD Time required: Diavolezza hut to basis then to summits and return = 6h-8h (from Boval add 1h) Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) or Boval hut (2495m) Top point: Central Piz Palü (3905m) Difference in height: hut to main summit: Route name: Piz Palü W (N spur) Difficulty: D (ice conditions dependent) Time required: basis to summit = 4h-6h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 700m Route name: Piz Palü W (NE face) Difficulty: TD (ice 60° to 70°) Time required: basis to summit = 4h-6h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 500m Route name: Piz Palü W (NW face) Difficulty: D+ (ice) Time required: hut to basis: 1:30h + basis to summit = 4h-5h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 600m Route name: Piz Palü Central (N couloir) Difficulty: D and seracs (and very exposed to multiple risks) Time required: hut to basis: 1:30h-2h + basis to summit = 5h-6h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü Central (3905m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 700m Route name: Piz Palü Central (N spur) Difficulty: D+ Time required: basis to summit = 5h-7h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü Central (3905m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 850m Route name: Piz Palü E (N spur) Difficulty: D Time required: 2h to basis and for basis to summit: 3h-5h Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) Top point: Piz Palü E (3882m) Difference in height: basis to summit: 500m

First ascents

1866 M.E. Digby, P. Jenny and X: west ridge 1868 july 22: A. Wachtler, Walner, Georg, Hans Grass, Christian Grass: WE traverse 1887 Septembre 1: H.Bumiller, M.Schocher, Johann Grass, Christian Zippert: Central spur 1899 July 31: J.T. Burton Alexander, Christian Zippert, Florian Grass: W spur 1899 August 22 M. von Küffner, M. Schocher, A. Burgener: E spur 1931 May 5: O. Feutl, W. Dobiasch: Central Couloir 1939 August 2: P. Corti, Isacco Dell'Avo: NW face

Pers Glacier

Born under Piz Palü north face this Glacier is the main affluent of Morteratsch Glacier.

Bernina express

A small wink to Bernina Express on Piz Palü page. This mountain train can be use to go to Morteratsch valley or to join Diavolezza cable car.

Camping and hut

Berghaus Diavolezza 2976 m Familie Lühr CH-7504 Pontresina Tel: +41 81 842 62 05 / Fax +41 81 842 61 58 (200 beds)

External Links

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2
Irma Weber

Irma Weber - Jun 6, 2002 9:29 am - Voted 8/10

Untitled Comment

For Reservations:
Berghaus Diavolezza
Familie Lühr
CH-7504 Pontresina
Tel: +41 81 842 62 05 / Fax +41 81 842 61 58
(200 beds)

Chandra

Chandra - Dec 5, 2003 7:40 am - Voted 8/10

Untitled Comment

A precise swiss map shows that the border passes also on the centrale (main) summit! Palü is half italian!

Viewing: 1-2 of 2


Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.

Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Bernina GroupMountains & Rocks