Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.36828°N / 9.93121°E
Additional Information County: Italy/Swiss
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Additional Information Elevation: 13110 ft / 3996 m
Sign the Climber's Log

OVERVIEW

Argient and Zupo

Piz Zupò and Piz d'Argent 

Second top in height after Piz Bernina of the entire omonimous group. In fact, it hasn’t only 4 meters to be the second 4.000! Twin top of Piz d'Argent, which breaks away with an elegant sharp ridge of ice and rock.

Three ridges detach from the top. Southwest, northwest (NNW) and southeast. The last at the base has 2 ramifications that lead to the glacier Fellaria. Instead the north ridge continues to Bellavista group, and among these, the Pass of Zupò (3.840m), allows easy connection between Glacier Fellaria in Italy to the glacier of Morteratsch in Schweiz. The two walls on the Italian side, overhang the glacier with steep rocky cliffs, while in the Swiss side a slide of ice spotted by rocks, lead below the "Fortezza" (upper part of Morteratsch glacier).

The name "Zupò" comes from the local dialect "Zuper", that means "hidden". In fact, the top is hardly visible from the north side, because it’s hidden from the tops of Bellavista. The entire traverse of the crests of Zupò and Argent, approached from both sides, is one of the most beautiful route of the Bernina group.

 

Bernina
 

 

 

The east side of Piz Zupò seen from Piz Palù.

 

GETTING THERE

From Italy: The best approach from Italy start from the ref.Marinelli. Useful for all the summits of Bernina group. It can be reached from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n° 5 in 3h'00. Or from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n° 7 in 5h'00 (longer and not advisable).

Ref. Marinelli is placed at the head of Valmalenco, but not visible from the valley. Valmalenco is a branch of the bigger Valtellina, reachable by car and busses from Sondrio, Milano and Bernina pass(CH).

Ref. MarcoRosa is also useful, but commonly used for the ascent of Piz Bernina.

From Swiss: Piz Zupò as the neighbour summits, lead the glacier of Morteratsch.

Ref. Diavolezza should be the easyest start point for overall, thanks to a cablecar service. Otherwise, from ref.Boval at the base of Morteratsch glacier.

Both places are reachable from Pontresina/S.Moritz.

ROUTES HISTORY

First ascent:
  • SW ridge: - L. Enderlin/Seradi - 09/07/1863
  • NNW ridge: - W. Freshfield/H. Dèvouassoud - 14/08/1871
  • NE wall: - J. Frohmann/C. Zippert/N. Kholer - 20/07/1909
  • SE ridge: - D. Marinelli/H. Grass/B. Pedranzini -04/08/1880
  • S spur/SE ridge: - C. Golay/J. Englert/C. Zippert - 21/09/1908
  • S wall: - A. Corti/L. Valesini - 13/08/1906

ROUTES

Piz Zupò²

Piz Zupò

  • NNW ridge: Italian normal route. From "Forcola settentrionale dello Zupò" (Zupò northern pass 3.840m) Level F (easy).
  • NE wall: From biv.Pansera. Level D (difficult).
  • SW ridge: The ridge connecting to Piz d'Argent. Very fine. Level PD/PD+ (not very difficult). The entire traverse across both summits, from "forcella di Cresta Guzza" to "forcella occidentale dello Zupò", is beautyful and advisable. Level AD- (quite difficult).
  • S spur/SE ridge: Not advisable and dangerous for falling stones. Level TD (very difficult).
  • Se ridge: In case of good condition, it's interesting, panoramic and advisable. From biv. Pansera. Level PD/AD.
  • S wall: If in good condition, no serious difficulties and not even dangers, while keeping all the characters of a great ascension for the grandeur and the diversity of the trail.

REFUGES and BIVOUACS

ref. MarcoRosa: (3.597m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 48+12 (winter)places - open july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-51.53.70

ref. Marinelli: (2.813m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 210+14 (winter)places - open may/july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-51.15.77

ref. Carate Brianza: (2.636m) - C.A.I. Carate B. - 23 places - open july/sept - tel. 0039-0342-45.25.60

bivouac A. Pansera: (3.546m) - C.A.I. Sondrio - 4 places - open all year

ref. Boval: (2.495m) - SAC Sektion Bernina CH - 100+12 (winter)places - open june/october tel. 0041-81-84.26.403

Hotel Diavolezza: (2.973m) - Private - 98 places - open all year - tel. 0041-81- 84.26.205

BOOKS and MAPS

Books: "Bernina & Bregaglia Selected Climbs" Lindsay Griffin ISBN: 0900523603 Alpine Club (http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/).

"Berninagruppe" Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten Walther Flaig ISBN: 3763324178 Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München

"Guida dei monti d'Italia" TCI Bernina Silvio Saglio

"Bernina e Disgrazia" n. 2 G.Miotti - Edizioni Melograno

Maps: Kompass n. 93 - Bernina e Disgrazia Landeskarte der Schweiz n. 268 - Julierpass

LINKS

Pontresina.com

Swissgeo

Gesthouse Diavolezza

Valtellina.com

Rifugi Valmalenco



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Bernina GroupMountains & Rocks