Pizzi dell'Oro

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Sondrio, Italy, Europe
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
8868 ft / 2703 m
6297 Hits
77.48% Score
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Page By:
Pizzi dell'Oro
Created On: Feb 27, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 5, 2008

Overview

This is a ridge with 3 summits :
Pizzo Settentionale (north) - 2653m
Pizzo Centrale - 2703m
Pizzo Meridionale (south) - 2695

They belong to the Porcellizzo subgroup and are delimited by the Passo Ligoncio (S) and Passo dell'Oro (N)

Looking at them from East (Masino Valley) they look of few importance, on the West side (Val Codera) they are quite fine with important wall, edges and spurs.

Due to their nearness to Rif. Omio they are frequently climbed : a fine path (passing on a ledge) allows easy and not long access to the west routes of South summit, while to get the starting of the North and Central summits the shortest way is Passo dell'Oro.
Rock on the west side is fantastic and routes are long enough to amuse without toiling.
Coming down is easy so these summits are a good way to spend a week-end of not very fine weather.

Routes overview

Here the most important and climbed ...
Pizzo Settentrionale
- west wall to West tower - 300 m - D
Pizzo Centrale
- west wall - 300 m - AD
- west spur - 300 - AD
Pizzo Meridionale
- south edge - short (about 100m) - AD
- west wall - 200 m - D sup
- north-west edge (Bramani) - 300 m - D - the best on these summits
- north wall - 300 - AD sup

Getting There

approach to this mountain can be done from 2 valleys that can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio

- starting (on foot) from Novate Mezzola you can enter the Val Codera and reach, after a long long long walk the rif. Brasca (val Codera) 1304m comfortable starting point but requiring a long walk (1000 m ascent)
- starting from Ardenno you can enter the Val Masino and, when in Bagni del Masino, with a fine 2 hours walk in Val dell'Oro, reach the rif Omio, 2100m, better starting point for all the routes (to get the W routes you must cross the Passo dell'Oro (or Passo Ligoncio) and descend some)




Red Tape

no problems

When To Climb

from june to october (but before snow !!!)