Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.29526°N / 9.60101°E
Additional Information County: Lombardia
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Big Wall
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 11046 ft / 3367 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Pizzo Cengalo 3369 m

Its north wall (on Bregaglia valley) is the highest wall (1300m) of the Rhaetian Alps.

Pizzo Cengalo
Pizzo Cengalo

 

East side of Cengalo seen from Passo del Camerozzo.
East side of Cengalo seen from Passo del Camerozzo.


On the italian side it has a ice cap covering in part its west side and 3 very fine ridges that make it characteristic.
Its normal route is not difficult but requires some mountain skill as it requires rock and snow climbing.

 

Getting There

Northern side : val BREGAGLIA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass : along this route you can enter the Val Bondasca

Southern side - VALTELLINA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio : along this route you can enter the Val Masino



starting points :
- Ardenno - bagni del Masino - for Val Porcellizzo (Italy)
- Bondo for val Bondasca (Switzerland)

Huts

Rifugio Gianetti 2536m
Rifugio Gianetti 2536m

 

- Rif. Gianetti 2534 m - Val Porcellizzo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sasc Fura hut with Piz Badile
Sasc Fura hut with Piz Badile

- Rif. Sasc Furà 1904 m - Val Bondasca

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening in Sciora Hut
Evening in Sciora Hut

 

 

- Rif. Sciora  2118 m - Val Bondasca


Routes overview

North wall the highest and most impressive wall

NW pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD - as fine as the NE wall to Piz Badile - 700 m + final ridge (WSW) -- (more pics from Lorenz) - NNW wall (Schnitzler-Schocher-Borghese) - the classic - D - a big wall and a grand course - looks like a Mont Blanc Group classic - NNW wall (Rusconi-Seinkotter-Tessari-Fabbrica) - few infos on it - NNW wall eastern pillars - (Kasper-Koch) - ED - 600 m to get the classic route

East ridge - (Bonacossa-Prochownick) - D - 250 m - fantastic rock and climb

South-east wall
on this wall many routes and variants, difficulties starting from AD sup : the most important are the Bonacossa-Polvara and the via Chiara (Gugiatti)

South ridge 2 different possibilities on this ridge : - Via Vinci - TD - the finest climb you can make starting from Gianetti Hut --(more pics from Lorenz) - Via Bonacossa - D - this route goes round the Vinci route avoiding the main difficulties

South-west wall this is a wall that ends, after about 150m on easy rocks under the normal route, some routes on this wall can be used if you find Vinci route too difficult.
On this side some secondary towers (Selene and Sinistra) can be used for sport climbing

WSW ridge
the normal route - F or PD - snow and rock - wonderful views


Some climbing pics

Gaiser Lehmann (NW pillar)
....
Vinci route (S edge)
...

Red Tape

No fees no permits required.

When To Climb

South-east side can be ready to climb in june (coming down could be a little complicate)
all other sides from july to september
beware of bad weather, very dangerous on this summit just as on the near Piz Badile

Where to stay

 3 confortable huts give you the possibilities you need.

Meteo

Meteo Arpa Lombardia

Meteoswitzerland 

Guidebooks and maps

Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia guidebook
Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia guidebook

 

“Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia” Vol. I by Alberto Bonacossa and Giovanni Rossi, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

Maps

- CNS - Swiss National Map sheet 1296 - Sciora, scala 1:25.000 - Kompass, foglio 92, Chiavenna - Val Bregaglia, scala 1:50.000 -

External Links

climberland link to a page about Gaiser-Lehmann spur

climberland link to a page about Vinci edge




Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.