Its north wall (on Bregaglia valley) is the highest wall (1300m) of the Rhaetian Alps.
On the italian side it has a ice cap covering in part its west side and 3 very fine ridges that make it characteristic.
Its normal route is not difficult but requires some mountain skill as it requires rock and snow climbing.
Northern side : val BREGAGLIA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass : along this route you can enter the Val Bondasca
Southern side - VALTELLINA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio : along this route you can enter the Val Masino
starting points :
- Ardenno - bagni del Masino - for Val Porcellizzo (Italy)
- Bondo for val Bondasca (Switzerland)
- Rif. Gianetti 2534 m - Val Porcellizzo
- Rif. Sasc Furà 1904 m - Val Bondasca
- Rif. Sciora 2118 m - Val Bondasca
North wall the highest and most impressive wall
NW pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD - as fine as the NE wall to Piz Badile - 700 m + final ridge (WSW) -- (more pics from Lorenz) - NNW wall (Schnitzler-Schocher-Borghese) - the classic - D - a big wall and a grand course - looks like a Mont Blanc Group classic - NNW wall (Rusconi-Seinkotter-Tessari-Fabbrica) - few infos on it - NNW wall eastern pillars - (Kasper-Koch) - ED - 600 m to get the classic route
East ridge - (Bonacossa-Prochownick) - D - 250 m - fantastic rock and climb
on this wall many routes and variants, difficulties starting from AD sup : the most important are the Bonacossa-Polvara and the via Chiara (Gugiatti)
South ridge 2 different possibilities on this ridge : - Via Vinci - TD - the finest climb you can make starting from Gianetti Hut --(more pics from Lorenz) - Via Bonacossa - D - this route goes round the Vinci route avoiding the main difficulties
South-west wall this is a wall that ends, after about 150m on easy rocks under the normal route, some routes on this wall can be used if you find Vinci route too difficult.
On this side some secondary towers (Selene and Sinistra) can be used for sport climbing
the normal route - F or PD - snow and rock - wonderful views
No fees no permits required.
South-east side can be ready to climb in june (coming down could be a little complicate)
all other sides from july to september
beware of bad weather, very dangerous on this summit just as on the near Piz Badile
3 confortable huts give you the possibilities you need.
“Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia” Vol. I by Alberto Bonacossa and Giovanni Rossi, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
- CNS - Swiss National Map sheet 1296 - Sciora, scala 1:25.000 - Kompass, foglio 92, Chiavenna - Val Bregaglia, scala 1:50.000 -
climberland link to a page about Gaiser-Lehmann spur
climberland link to a page about Vinci edge