This is the second as height but the biggest rock structure in the whole Masino-Disgrazia Group.
Its north wall (on Bregaglia valley) is the highest wall (1300m) of the Retic alps.
On the italian side it has a ice cap covering in part its west side and 3 very fine ridges that make it characteristic.
Its normal route is not difficult but requires some mountain skill as it requires rock and snow climbing.
Routes overviewNorth wall
the highest and most impressive wall
NW pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD - as fine as the NE wall to Piz Badile - 700 m + final ridge (WSW) -- (more pics from Lorenz)
NNW wall (Schnitzler-Schocher-Borghese) - the classic - D - a big wall and a grand course - looks like a Mont Blanc Group classic
NNW wall (Rusconi-Seinkotter-Tessari-Fabbrica) - few infos on it
NNW wall eastern pillars - (Kasper-Koch) - ED - 600 m to get the classic route
East ridge - (Bonacossa-Prochownick) - D - 250 m - fantastic rock and climb
on this wall many routes and variants, difficulties starting from AD sup : the most important are the Bonacossa-Polvara and the via Chiara (Gugiatti)
South ridge 2 different possibilities on this ridge :
via Vinci - TD - the finest climb you can make starting from Gianetti Hut --(more pics from Lorenz)
via Bonacossa - D - this route goes round the Vinci route avoiding the main difficulties
South-west wall this is a wall that ends, after about 150m on easy rocks under the normal route, some routes on this wall can be used if you find Vinci route too difficult.
On this side some secondary towers (Selene and Sinistra) can be used for sport climbing
the normal route - F or PD - snow and rock - wonderful views
some climbing picsGaiser Lehmann (NW pillar)
Vinci route (S edge)
Getting ThereNorthern side : val BREGAGLIA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass : along this route you can enter the Val Bondasca
Southern side - VALTELLINA - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36)
- Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio : along this route you can enter the Val Masino
starting points :
- Ardenno - bagni del Masino - for Val Porcellizzo (Italy)
- Bondo for val Bondasca (Switzerland)
- rif Gianetti (val Porcellizzo) 2534m
- rif Sasc Fourà (val Bondasca) 1904m
- rif Sciora (Val Bondasca) 2118m
Red Tapeno problems
When To Climbsouth-east side can be ready to climb in june (coming down could be a little complicate)
all other sides from july to september
beware of bad weather, very dangerous on this summit just as on the near Piz Badile
Campingno need, 3 confortable huts give you the possibilities you need.