Refuge des Cosmiques

Overview

The Refuge des Cosmiques is an often used hut in the Mont Blanc group and it has an easy access from the Aiguille du Midi.
You have several climbing possibilities so you should book a sleeping place some days before.

From the hut you have a great view to the Col du Midi and the glaciers in this area (Vallée Blanche and Glacier du Géant ), to Mont Blanc du Tacul (with the normal route to the summit), Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc. Grandes Jorasses and Dent du Géant also looks very impressive from the hut. You also see Chamonix 2.000 m below in the valley.

Evening impression from the hut	view to Mont Blanc	Grandes Jorasses and Dent du Géant

How to get there

Normally everybody takes the ropeway to the Aiguille du Midi (3.811 m). Every other ascent to the hut is extremely long and difficult.

From the mountain station of Aiguille du Midi you descent in 30 minutes to the hut. First you have to go a very sharp snow ridge (ca. 100 m, normally with a good track, on the right side you will fall to the Col du Midi (3.532 m), on the left side you will fall down over 1.000 m with direction Chamonix).
When the ridge gets wider you turn to the Col du Midi (3.532 m) in a wide arch (crevasses on the right side).

At the end you have to ascent 80 hm to the hut.
The hut is located in the rocks under the Aiguille du Midi.

Route possibilities

1.
Cosmique ridge (AD, IV+):
From the Refuge Cosmique you traverse under the Midi-south wall to the Abri-Simond bivouac. Here the ridge starts in the direct line to the mountain station of Aiguille du Midi. At the end you reach the viewing platform of Aiguille du Midi via a ladder.

2.
Via the Vallée Blanche and the glacier du Géant to the Rifugio Torino (3.371 m).

3.
Mont Blanc du Tacul 4.248 m
Normal route via North-west flank
difficulty: PD-, Snow or ice up to 40°
Time to summit: 3 1/2 h from the hut

4.
Mont Maudit 4.465 m
Normal route via North-west flank
difficulty: PD, snow or ice up to 50°
Time to summit: 6-7 hours from the hut

5.
Mont Blanc 4.810 m
Mont Blanc traverse via Mont Blanc du Tacul, Col Maudit, Mont Maudit, Col de la Brenva.
difficulty: PD+, snow or ice up to 60° (30 m, the rest maximum 50°)
Time to summit: 10-13 hours from the hut

6.
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 4.748 m
Same as Mont Blanc
From the summit of Mont Blanc in 30 minutes to the top
difficulty: PD+, often an icy ridge

7.
Dôme de Goûter 4.304 m
After the Mont Blanc traverse descending from the summit of Mont Blanc via the Bosses ridge to Dôme de Goûter.
Time from Refuge Cosmique: 11-14 hours

.

Mont Blanc du Tacul	Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc, MB de Courmayeur	Cosmique ridge

Reservation

The hut is a private hut with 120 sleeping places.
Opened till October.

Telephone number for reservation:
hut: 0450-544016,
valley: 0450-54-0619