Monte Bianco di Courmayeur is the South-East shoulder of Mont Blanc with 4.765 m. It is offshore to the Mont Blanc about 800 m in the direction of Courmayeur. If you look to the Mont Blanc massif from Courmayeur it seems that the Monte Bianco di Courmayeur is the top of Mont Blanc. Actually Monte Bianco di Courmayeur should be considered as the fore-summit of Mont Blanc, in fact its prominence compared to Mont Blanc is lower than thirty meters. However, due to its morphological, mountaineering and historical importance, it had been included in the main list of 4000 in the Alps. Check here the complete list of the 82 alpine Fourthousanders and the 46 minor summits: Club4000.
Monte Bianco di Courmayeur is separated from Mont Blanc by the Col Major 4720 m.
A question is if the border between Italy and France runs across Mont Blanc de Courmayeur or not. According to the latest information on the web, the border between Italy and France would run on the main summit of Mont Blanc and not on the Mont Blanc di Courmayeur; consequently this latter top would be included entirely in Italian territory. See here the latest information: The border on Mont Blanc.
The first known ascent was made on 18 August 1822 by F. Clissold with Joseph Marie Couttet and five other guides, who reached the summit descending from the main summit of Mont Blanc.
The starting point to climb Monte Bianco di Courmayeur is the town of Courmayeur in the South side of the massif.
From Turin through the Aosta valley 150 km
From Chamonix: 25 km through the Mont Blanc Tunnel in 30 minutes
Cantine de la Visaille (1.653 m) through the Val Veni
There is an easy access from the top of Mont Blanc.
The way to Mont Blanc you find when you look at the Mont Blanc page.
So I give an overview only in short form.
4 commonly used ways to Mont Blanc:
1. From Chamonix - Les Houches - Bellevue - Nid d´Aigle - Refuge Tête Rousse - Cabane de Goûter - Bosses ridge
2. Plan de l´Aiguille - Refuge Grands Mulets - Glacier des Bossons
3. Aiguille du Midi - Refuge Cosmiques - Mont Blanc traverse
4. Val Veni (Italy) - Bivacco Sella - Glacier du Mont Blanc
You reach Chamonix (1.030 m) by car or by train from Martigny (40 km).
Distances to Chamonix:
Gèneve: 86 km
Aosta: 59 km
From Chamonix 8 km to Les Houches. There is a bus connection between Chamonix and Les Houches.
- Brouillard ridge
AD+, rock difficulties up to III+, the rock is in some parts crumbly.
Time: 10-18 hours from Rifugio Monzino, 2.200 height meters difference
When you climb the ridge you make the peak of Pic Luigi Amedeo (4.469 m)
- Innominata ridge
D+, one of the most famous ridges in the Mont Blanc area, combined climbing.
Time: 12-17 hours from Rifugio Monzino, 7-10 hours from Bivacco Eccles, 1.450 height meters from Rifugio Monzino
- Peuterey ridge (with crossing Aiguille Blanche):
D+, rock difficulties up to IV-, mostly III and II, combined climbing, ice up to 55°.
Time: 10-20 hours from Rifugio Monzino, 2.500 height meters
- Pilone Centrale del Freney
TD+, rock difficulties up to VI grade UIAA and A1
One of the most classic high alpine routes in the Alps that allows you to climb to the top of Mont Blanc along the rock pillar at the highest altitude of the whole group. The overall physical and mental commitment required to climb it makes it a legendary and timeless climb.
- From the main summit of Mont Blanc
It's possible to summit the Monte Bianco di Courmayeur starting from the top of Mont Blanc within 25 minutes, when the conditions are good. In the flank there is often blank ice, so you should take care not to glide! On the ridge there are huge cornices. Keep distance!
Rifugio Monzino (2.590 m, 60 places)
open from middle of June to End of September
Time 2 1/2 hours from Cantine de la Visaille (1.653 m)
Cabane de l´Aiguille du Goûter (3.817 m, 100 places)
open from end of June to end of september, Winter room with 16 places
Time: from the tram 2-3 hours to Refuge Tête Rousse, from there to Cabane de l´Aiguille du Goûter 2-3 hours
"Bivacco Giuseppe Lampugnani - Giancarlo Grassi"
From July to September